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Langhe: Italy’s Best Kept Secret

An incredible alternative to the Chianti area is Piemonte’s Langhe area. This rich wine region has everything that a tourist is looking for in a holiday. The Langhe area is first class in food, architecture, wine and nature. Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Moscato are just a few of the many wines produced here and sold throughout the world. It is also an UNESCO  World Heritage protected region.

The Secret is out

The hills around Cherasco were described by Napoleon as God’s gift and the food is second to none. Porcini, Truffles, Brasato al Barolo or Agnolotti del Plin are traditional, -must -try dishes when you are in the Langhe. But, don’t stop with just those.

art and culture, Piemonte, Italia Bound

I’ve known individual that arrive at Milan Malpensa airport, rent a car and head straight to Tuscany because they want to experience the Italian wine region, not realizing much closer is probably one of the most incredible wine areas in the world. Of course if you are going to sip wine you need good food and the Langhe doesn’t disappoint. 

Brasato al Barolo, Langhe, Italia Bound
Brasato al Barolo

Canelli is in the province of Asti, not even two hours south of Milan. Here your memorable journey will start. Great food, amazing architecture, beautiful landscapes, renowned wines, and not only.

Grappa Before Wine?

 The hilltop town is our first stop. Canelli is on the border between Monferrato and the Langhe subregions. As we  first stroll through this beautiful town we need to make a quick stop at the Pasticceria Bosca and saviour some of the best pastries in the area, possibly with a glass of Moscato. Famous brands such as Cinzano, Matini & Rossi, Gancia are all from here.

The best comes as we arrive at the Distilleria Bocchino. Here you can take a tour of the distillery and sample some Grappa of Moscato. Bocchino in 1898 was the first to make grappa piemontese from single origin grape thus making it not only particular but also celebrated. Today this 5th generation family owned distillery produces world renowned grappa. 

 Once back on the road, we head to none other than the town of Barolo. But, before approaching the town we will make a quick detour in Grinzane Cavour where its majestic castle overlooks the beautiful wine valley. 

Matteo Marra, Barolo, Langhe, Italia Bound
Matteo Marra, Barolo

Rolling Around

Off to Barolo for a quick lunch at one of its many phenomenal restaurants; my favorite being Matteo Morra. We then head 6 kilometres up the hill to La Morra where we stroll through Trails of Barolo to help us digest our latest culinary experience.

Architectural Wonders

We could be ready for a nap but instead we head to Dogliani. The Neo Gothic town, unique for this area, is a must for visitors. We will also visit the Bar Pasticceria da Cerrina for a caffè and fabulous pastries and then make our way to Cà Nueva. Here, the Abbona family has been producing wine since the 1800’s.

Several wines are produced at the azienda Cà Nueva and a tour of the structure and tasting is a great way to end a day after wandering through some of the best hills and valleys of the Langhe. 

Grinzane Cavour, Langhe, Italia Bound
Grinzane Cavour Castle

Relax and Re-charge

By now it is probably getting late so we head north to Alba where we can dine at one of the many restaurants or at my favorite; Boia Fauss Pensavo Peggio. Just the name is intriguing enough to make you want to try it. Later, sip the evening away as we recharge for the next day. 

Tomorrow is an Other Day

La Morra, Langhe ,Italia Bound, Italian holiday Davide Fattor
Barolo and the Langhe UNESCO Heritage

Alba itself is full day of exploring, and a must. Otherwise on to Bastia Mondovì and in particular the winery Bricco del Cuccù. If you do, and you should, ask to view the Chapel of San Fiorenzo. A rare sight of Goth Piemontese affrescos and view the famous affresco of the 7 Sins. There is more to see. Bra, Cherasco or the castles of  Serralunga d’Alba, and Roddi await us. Not to mention the many other towns, restaurants, shops, wineries and museums throughout the Langhe. 

This culturally rich region provides tourists, foodies, wine lovers and nature lovers some of the best kept secrets in Italy. The proximity to Milan, Turin, Genova and the easiness to access the small towns make the Langhe a must to any Italian itinerary. 

For ways to reach Italy check out my blogs on Getting Around Italy on Planes and Trains

Many thanks to Enrico of  http://www.langhe.net for his assistance and recommendations in creating this itinerary. 

Naturally this is only the tip of the “Langhe” iceberg and if you would like more information or help in organizing a trip through this region or any other part of Italy, drop a line here below or at contact me privately at info@italiabound.com

If you find this article useful please share it with your fellow travellers and on social media.

‘Till then…Buon Viaggio. 

3 Unique  Experiences of  Art and Culture in Italy

If you are in Italy and you are looking for unique art and culture, it would be impossible to miss it. Italy is a open air museum and everywhere you go the ghosts of the past are all around you enhancing your experience. One not to miss.

Lets start:

1) Architecture. Art and Culture

The essence of art and culture. It’s everywhere, but sometimes overlooked or taken for granted, even the one dating back from before Christ.

From Roman ruins to Longobards Castles to Etruschian catacombs. The visual experience is endless when you travel throughout Italy, from one part of the country to another, based on who was the ruler or the invader at that time.

Italy architecture constantly changed with unique and refreshing art and culture.

Trieste, for instance, a city reminiscing of Vienna since it was under Austrian-Hungarian control until almost the end of the  18th century, contrasts from Torino with its French influence.

Torino Mole italiabound.com
La Mole Antonelliana di Torino

Torino was seized by Napoleon until its fall, or Napoli, which was contested between  the French and Spaniards dynasties basically up until the Risorgimento or unification of Italy in 1861.

What is amazing about Italy is the uniqueness of its architecture. It is worthwhile to pay close attention to all of its beauty as you travel across the landscapes.

To me a must see is the Reggia of Caserta. Royal Palace from the 18th century and now a UNESCO Heritage Site. Once the home of  Carlo III, Duke of Bourbons and King of the Kingdom of Naples. It’s the largest Royal residence in the world. Need I say more? A must see. reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it

2) Museums, Art Show and Galleries.

It is well obvious that Italy itself is an open air museum yet you will find something under a museum roof that will excite and inspire you to search for more unique beauties in this amazing country. Italians thirst for art and culture allows for hundreds and hundreds of museums, art galleries and theatres to instil knowledge and entertainment. The museum choices are endless, whether it’s affreschi, paintings, sculptures, modern or antique furniture, or… Yes! Even racing cars. 

Museums are everywhere. And you need not be in a big center to take in any of that.

Uffizi Florence italiabound.com
Uffizi Museums in Florence

A must is the Uffizi in Florence   . And one of my favourites, ( although it has nothing to do with Italy) is the Museo Egizio di Torino. It’s the largest Egyptian museum outside Egypt. I need to go back there again. I just love it.

3) Archeological sites

In a Country rich of past civilizations it isn’t hard to find archeological sites to explore. Naturally the ones that come to mind are Pompei,  pompei.it , Ercolano ercolano.beniculturali.it and of course Rome itself.

colosseo roma italia bound
Il Colosseo in Rome

In Tuscany or Umbria there are many  archeological sites of the mysterious Etruscan civilization. Particular the Necropolis of Cerveteri and Tarquinia  not to be mistaken for the Necropoli della Banditaccia also near Cerveteri. If you  have the time, you should see both.

Sicily, and  Calabria on the other hand are home of many Greek ruins such as  in the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, where The Temple of Concordia reigns over the Sicilian island. A must see.

Aquileia, founded in 181 BC, in Friuli is rich in Roman ruins, ancient crypts and most recently a newly found Roman port buried under thousand years of dirt grasses and trees. Further north, but by only 40km,  is Cividale, founded in. 53 BC by Julius Cesar.

Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli.

You can discover the history of the Longobardi. It’s path through different civilizations. Amongst many things you must visit the 3rd Century Celtic burial crept –Ipogeo Celtico- www.cividale.com deep in the undergrounds of the town. ( get the key from the restaurant next door or at the travel information center ).

What’s is amazing is that all are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

These among many others, are museum, cities and sites that I personally visited and enjoyed, but thousand more are there waiting  to be discovered by you. That is Why You Should  Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday.  And if you decide to head over to this wonderful country, I can help.

“Til then…Buon viaggio.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

3 Easy Hikes at the Foot of the Italian Alps in Northern Italy

Alagna to Rifugio Pastore

An easy hour-long hike  through the Parco Naturale Alta Valsesia in the shadow of the Monte Rosa in Piemonte. Monte rosa is Italy’s second highest mountain, after Monte Bianco, in the Italian Alps. Here you criss-cross rivers and creeks on wooden bridges until you reach at 1575 metres in altitude the refuge. www.rifugimonterosa.it

Relaxing at the Rifugio Pastore

 

 

The hike stars in Wold, one kilometre passed the town of Alagna. You will continue for three kilometre or so on a paved road till Acqua Bianca. At this point you enter trail number 6 and head to the rifugio. There are two ways to get there, both start in Wold and both take the same amount of time. This one just happened to be my favorite.

The rifugio, is  a rock and shale hut built in 1973 to commemorate an avid mountaineer Francesco Pastore who had past away in an automobile accident. It’s purpose is to protect and give refuge to hikers and trekkers during storms, and rest for those continuing on. It’s also a restaurant and shelter for overnight guests.

Stay for lunch, or a merenda ( snack ). But whatever you decide, you must have their homemade cake (torta del rifugio) and a hot chocolate, Italian style. Well deserved treat for accomplishing the climb.

 

Pella to Santuario di Madonna del Sasso

Hike above the breathtaking Lago d’Orta. One and a half hours of easy strolling and hiking but once there, the view is magnificent. Visit the sanctuary before enjoying lunch at the Hotel Ristorante Panoramico. If you do, try the Strangozzi al Ragoût di Cinghiale (wild boar sauce). If the hike is too long, drive most of the way and maybe just walk the last 30 minutes from Artó. It certainly would give you a reason to work off the pasta.

Later, drive back down to Orta, stroll the town and take the boat to l’Isola di San Giulio. Stroll the short pathway around the Benedictine monastery, pick up a souvenir and then have a cioccolata calda in Piazza Motta back in Orta.

Piazza Motta in Orta with the Island of San Giulio in the bachground and the Sanctuary above and behind

An UNESCO Site

If you have the time, the Sacro Monte di Orta is a UNESCO site worth visiting. It’s only 5 minutes by car from any parking lot in Orta. A unique sanctuary with  20 Franciscan chapels and 375 terracotta statues, depicting religious stories.

One of the 20 chapels with terracotta statues.

The construction started back in the late 1500’s and were terminated in 1788. The art work is remarkable and its also free. The whole site sits on top of the mountain with a gorgeous view of the lake. At the very least, if you running short of time you must try to make it back an other day. or do quick visit, it’s certainly worth strolling through. I have spent many of my visits to Italy discovering this beautiful small lake rich of secrets. I don’t know why, but I just love this lake in particular when it’s raining…call me crazy.

 A hike on Lake Como

This is a longer hike but the terrain is plenty easy and the sights are amazing. You’ll need about three hours, but wow! it is certainly the most scenic of the lake of Como. Start the trek at the train station in Dervio. Why the train station? Simply because when you arrive in Bellano‘s train station you can catch any of the local trains back to your point of origin.

Leave Dervio station and head to the church of San Quirico e Giulitta facing the lake. Here is where the actual trail starts and although sometimes it’s paved, you are actually on ancient roads that were used to connect Como and Switzerland. Throughout the hike you will see ruins, mulattiere (mule trails) that date back centuries, and lots of farmland and farm houses, in particular the Cascine dei Ronchi, where you’ll have a marvellous view of the lake.

You’ll walk through the Valle dei Mulini, cross over stone bridges and visit the Santuario di Lezzeno and the church of San Bernardino or the one of San Rocco.

This trail is a wonderful testament to history and earlier civilizations. You will reach the Orrodo gorge, an amazing natural wonder with suggestive waterfalls and gollies. Soon after that you’ll see the church of the Saints Nazaro e Celso before heading to Bellano where the trail actually ends at the train station.

Easy Train Ride Home

Relax a bit, have a cappuccino or lunch pending what time you get there and afterwards take the easy way back to Dervio. Since the train ride is only 6 minutes, yes 6 minutes, and costs about €1,50, you can spend some time just visiting that town.

If you don’t want to hike the total distance, and since the two towns are only six minutes by train, you could hike a few kilometres in each place.  You will get a good feeling about the area and still see some great panoramas, and at the same time you have given yourself a good pat on the back for having done at least somewhat of a good nature walk. Any amount of time amongst nature is time well spent. Good for the body, the spirit… and the appetite.

“Till then…Buon viaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.