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COVID-19 Italy’s Sad Reality

It’s hard to talk about traveling in times like these. COVID-19 has hit Italy hard and every part of the world has been invaded by the virus. Even when you know that things will get better, in the back of your mind you know that things will never be the same. 

More so in Italy where human contact is so much part of everyday life. How will Italians rally back from this epidemic? How will they act around others? More importantly how will they be able to cope with the heavy loss of lives?

Why Italy is Hit so Hard

Italy has been hit hardest for many reasons. Two major factors are: 1. Italians have close contact with people in their everyday life and 2. Italy has a very large aging population.

First of all, kissing, hugging, connecting with people physically is part of everyday Italian greetings and life in both formal and informal settings. As well, most Italians live within walking distance of their work, or use public transportation to access their activities.

Here in North America, we leave our house, jump in our car and drive to work in our bubble. We then work and jump back into our cars to head to our activities or shopping before taking our protective chariot home where we stay for the rest of the evening.

In Italy, daily routines involve being amongst crowds of people throughout the day. Italians engage in tens of interactions with neighbours, small businesses owners and casual acquaintances all through their day in addition to regularly spending home time with extended family and close friends. Shopping daily for groceries at the neighbourhood food store, enjoying a quick espresso at a bar counter before work, or just chatting in the streets or piazza with passerbys – Italians live and love to socialize.

Secondly, Italy has one of the world’s highest percentage of seniors. Italy’s population in 2017 had 35% of people over the age of 65 – the highest rate in Europe. In the last 20 years alone Italy’s seniors grew in population percentage from 22.5% to 30%. Italy overall has a population of 60 million people, approximately 20 million plus, who are seniors – all living in a country the size of the State of California.

Loss of Grandparents

These thousands of seniors that are dying are not only a great loss to their families. More importantly they are a tremendous loss to the younger generations. These older people are grandparents, uncles, and aunts to million and millions of adolescents.

In Italy, grandparents, great aunts and uncles have always been there to be the bridge between youth and their parents.

In the last 30 to 40 years, the Italian lifestyle and culture has had grandparents come out of “retirement” and help raise the grandchildren.

Many of these golden age citizens move in with their own sons and daughters. They, at the very least, move close by and contribute in shaping these youngsters. These youngsters on the other hand are instrumental in giving the older generation a purpose and a sense of belonging. 

Life with Grandparents

I can look back at my youth and see how my grandparents shaped me. They educated me, played with me, shared their knowledge, and taught me to appreciate the generations before me.  

I can’t imagine my youth without my nonni. Today I am who I am thanks to them. Yes, my parents were there for me always, but my grandparents were essentially as important – a cornerstone in my growing years.

Many of days spent at my nonni house happened because my parents were working or traveling. My nonni were always there to help. I could write a book on my many days spent with my nonni. Oh the many adventures that I had with them! The places we visited, the fun we had together, and the traditions, discipline and respect that they instilled in me will forever be a part of who I am.  

Foundation of Upbringing

My nonni and their brothers and sisters were always around us kids, shaping us without us even knowing. The memories and the stories are the foundation of my upbringing.

To this day I phone my remaining great aunts and uncles in Italy monthly. Unfortunately, year after year there are less of them to call. At least I had decades of them in my life and now I find myself close to their children and their grandchildren because of that. 

Great Loss

The question now is: How will these children’s lives be different now that they have lost their grandparents or great aunts and uncles to COVID-19?  How will the Italian nuclear family function without the older generation to support them as they always have?

How will the final masterpiece differ now that key parts of the puzzle are missing? Where are they going to find answers? How will the new generations’ stories change now that they will not have the privilege of having their grandparents be a formative part their lives? 

Things will get better and Italy will overcome this epidemic too, but will things be the same? For Italy, likely not as their future has been altered when COVID-19 eliminated many of the people that helped shape its past. 

If you don’t know where you came from, how can you know where you are going? Your ancestors are your map. 

The next generation of Italians now face a challenge. How do they remember their predecessors and learn how to cope without them? Moving on is never easy. Even while things get back to “normal”, it certainly will not be the same. 

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Art and Culture

13 Italian Cultural Habits…and 7 Habits Foreign Tourists Don’t Understand

 Italian Cultural Habits. Some things you just need to know.

Cultural Habits, thats right. Italians are different in that way. You are heading to Italy and are excited about the food and the wine you will enjoy.  You can’t wait to step back into time. Walk the streets that the ancient Romans walked. See the art from great artists and relive the history. You want to experience Italy through the eyes of Italians.

If that is the case, there are some things that you should know.  Just so you don’t stand out, or at least so that you can understand why Italians do the things they do.

After all when in Rome…

-I know that it’s odd, but in Italy waiters serve bread to the table without oil and balsamic and for sure they will never ever bring you butter.

Bread is essential to any dinner or lunch table. Its primary purpose is to have it with the meat dishes, secondi, or to snack on before the pasta arrives. And for a traditional scarpetta; Cleaning off the plate of the tomato sauce with a chunk of bread after finishing your pasta. Avoid eating your pasta with bread, though. That would scream horror and definitely labels you as “another tourist.”

-Italians always end their meals with a caffè espresso.  In some cases, individuals may choose an espresso corretto which means, corrected with a splash of grappa or brandy. At times, but very rarely, someone may ask for a macchiato or a drop of cold milk. Never would they have a cappuccino after a meal. You will definitely get a sarcastic comment from the waiter or at the very least an insulted look.

Cappuccino is a meal in itself for Italians as it is the choice of beverage for breakfast, by itself or with a cornetto or brioche. Sometimes they have it in the afternoon . But after a three course meal it’s a total no, no… nooooo!

Un caffe’ per favore

-Coffee in Italy is a culture and it’s enjoyed several times daily. Unlike in North America where we tend to sip a 20oz for several hours, Italians prefer to have it al banco (at the bar counter), down it and move on with their day, or at least until the next one. Because they are a sociable society they often invite someone to have a caffè with them and to share a few words before they all go their separate ways. It’s an inexpensive commodity and easily offered to friends and acquaintances. Its not just a cultural habit. It’s a daily one. Of course if coffee is not your choice there is always room for a gelato. One a day keeps the doctor away!

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– Avoid dining with milk. Even children do not have milk with meals. The number one choice of beverage at during a meal is… water! Still or sparkling, but definitely water. You will be charged for it, too. In a pizzeria a bibita gassata (soft drink) is sometimes enjoyed with a pizza, especially for the little guys.  At least if you do ask for a soft drink, you won’t get any weird stares.

Wine with your pizza? Really?

Wine on the other hand is not recommended with a pizza. No funny faces from the waiter if you do. Italians mostly enjoy beer with it. Order a glass of milk and you’ll never hear the end of it. Dining with a cocktail is almost as bad as ordering milk or juice. Have your Martini or Campari as an aperitivo but move on to wine as soon as you are seated.

-You will notice that at 6 or 7 in the evening, many bars are crowded with aperitivi goers. It’s sort of like happy hour if you will, but here you can have food that is all free as long as you order a drink. Here is where you would have an aperitivo, pile onto your plate a few samples of different specialties and enjoy the food and the conversation.

Maybe tomorrow

-Italians have certain habits down to an art. It’s not a coincidence that every other country in the world looks at Italians with envy when it comes to living life. They definitely have defined and perfected a few phrases. “La dolce vita” (the sweet life) and “Il dolce far niente,” (the sweetness of doing nothing at all). Two quotes that define the Italian love for life and the recognition that constant running around and being too busy is not always necessary, nor is healthy.

italiabound.com relax italian style

Many foreigners may see that as being “lazy” but, considering the country and its peoples’ achievements over the centuries, that argument hardly stands. Maybe it wouldn’t hurt for others to adopt some of these habits, particularly when traveling in Italy. But hey, why not take it home and add it to your everyday life too.

-Italians don’t like fast food restaurants as they don’t give enough time to engage in conversation and enjoy the food prepared, which also means that they prefer eating in company. It’s hard to talk about the food if you are the only one at the table or if everyone is in a rush.

Ciao come stai? Let’s go for a caffe’

– Italians put so much emphasis on  general conversation. There is nothing more rude in Italy than to cross someone on the street and say “Hi how are you!?” And then just keep on walking (as we might do in North America). If you ask, expect an answer and a long conversation. People congregate on the sidewalks, in the piazza, under the portici or at markets. They always find a subject to discuss. They may just ask about family and life in general. So slow down and do enjoy the small things in life.

Italians al bar italiabound.com travel Palermo Italy

-Family is an important aspect of their lives. In some cases, no wage increase is enough to move away from close family. As I recall, a very good friend of mine refused a substantial wage increase because the heartache of his daughter being raised too far away from the grandparents just wasn’t worth the money or the 800 kilometre move. Life is too short, simply put.

 -Kids are brought up around wine and spirits and because of that they grow up with little interest in drinking. Since they don’t drink milk, juices or soft drinks at meals, often their parents may add a drop or two of wine in the water, but mostly they drink plain water. Children are always surrounded by wine, and often snob it as they get older.

-Children are in constant contact with adults. What I mean is that children are not overlooked when adults are invited to dinners or parties. Unless otherwise stated, expect them to bring their bambini to a friend’s dinner. If they show up without their kids, the host would be surprised and question why they aren’t present.

 

3 Unique Experiences of Art and Culture in Italy

Ciao Bella. Where are you going?

-Because Italians live in the cities and in apartmentrs, they love to spend their time outside. The weather is a big help, even in the winter. Spending time outdoors regenerates their well-being. Fresh air is a luxury when you live in the city and the outdoor is precious. It’s not difficult to find kids, elders and teens congregate outside and enjoy one another’s company in parks, on boulevards or in a piazza. Sunday is a family day and short trips visiting neighbouring towns for long lunches are quintessential for their dolce far niente lifestyle.  As well evening passeggiate, strolls to the town centres.

-Dressing up is very important for Italians. I read an article years ago that Italians are the number one buyers of signature clothing and like to show them off. Signature handbags are the number one accessory amongst women and wallets for men, mostly Italian designers, but not necessarily. If they are going to buy something, it’s going to be a renowned griffe.

…And just to be fair.

Here are some things that foreigners dislike, don’t appreciate or don’t understand about Italians. And why not? After all, not everything that glitters is gold, and even a wonderful place like Italy has its faults.  

-Noise. Italians are… noisy. They are loud, they yell. And not because they are mad or upset, but simply because they believe that yelling gets the point across better. They love the horn on their car. If it’s there, use it!. They love to use hand gestures when talking. It’s nothing personal, but to them it’s not rude to talk loud and with lots of hand and finger gestures.

Lets go for lunch

– Italians hate fast food, but tourists also dislike the fact that Italians take forever to finish their meals. Since they would rather take their time to eat, Italian life in general stops around lunch. Stores close for 3 or 4 hours during the middle of the day. Banks stay closed until 4pm and even gas stations shut down for lunch. Of course restaurants are open, but only until 2:30pm. If you choose not to eat during that time, you’ll have a difficult time finding a restaurant that is open.

It’s closed? Why is it a holiday?

Tourists, especially North Americans, want everything at their finger tips. In Italy, it doesn’t work that way. Restaurants close at 2:30pm and don’t open again until 7 or 8 pm. Stores, boutiques, banks, government offices, gas stations and even factories all close down for lunch and some don’t even reopen in the afternoon.

Naturally, if you are in an area with lots of tourists, you will have everything at your fingertips.  Everyone caters to tourists and almost everything is always open, but is that really the Italy vibe that you are looking for?

Two sunny side up please. Or not!

-Foreigners dislike Italian choices for breakfast. Lunch is the biggest meal, there is no need for a massive breakfast. Unless you are staying in a franchise hotel where continental breakfasts are served, many places will offer a cappuccino with a few different white flour breads with jams, cookies or brioche and that’s it. Bars or caffè will serve pastries and maybe panini in the morning, but if you are looking for bacon and eggs, well… good luck.

-Italians are romantic people so don’t be alarmed or offended if you see couples kissing and hugging in public on their Vespa or on a park bench. When young couples are in love, well, the whole world must know about it. At the same time, going for a passeggiata  with arms linked, is normal (even for guys).

-Smoking is one of those habits that Europeans do more than North Americans. Socially it is still not seen as a bad habit nor is it rude to light up in an outdoor restaurant. As someone who also does not smoke, I find it “not to my taste” but until laws change, there too, we have to endure this cultural habit.

Il Bambino is Bravo, No?

-“Kids rule and have little respect.” That’s what a few people have said to me about Italian’s kids. Yes, to a certain extent I have to agree. Kids are raised by their parents and grandparents to be the centre of the world… well maybe the universe.

Family adore, love and spoil  their children to the point that they can do no wrong and the grown ups seem to always find an excuse to justify their behaviour.  Italian kids are the only ones that I can think of that have no problem mingling with adults and chat up a storm without any shyness nor problems.

Nonetheless, they are respectful and talk to elderly people with respect and politeness, but maybe with a loud voice.

You First?… No Me first…Ciao

-Line ups. They don’t like them. If they can sneak by you, they will. Whether it’s at the bank or at a red light.  If they are on some type of a two wheeler, then line ups don’t exist, nor traffic for that matter. Even 90 year old grandmothers, if they can sneak by, will do so.

So, now that you know a little bit more about Italians, you can head there and really enjoy the country and its people. Italy is a very friendly, hospitable and generous country with a few quirks. But then again, that’s why you are there; to enjoy and experience every aspect of Italians and Italy. And if those quarks weren’t there, well then you’d be in a different country.

‘Till then… Buon viaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Art and Culture

3 Unique  Experiences of  Art and Culture in Italy

If you are in Italy and you are looking for unique art and culture, it would be impossible to miss it. Italy is a open air museum and everywhere you go the ghosts of the past are all around you enhancing your experience. One not to miss.

Lets start:

1) Architecture. Art and Culture

The essence of art and culture. It’s everywhere, but sometimes overlooked or taken for granted, even the one dating back from before Christ.

From Roman ruins to Longobards Castles to Etruschian catacombs. The visual experience is endless when you travel throughout Italy, from one part of the country to another, based on who was the ruler or the invader at that time.

Italy architecture constantly changed with unique and refreshing art and culture.

Trieste, for instance, a city reminiscing of Vienna since it was under Austrian-Hungarian control until almost the end of the  18th century, contrasts from Torino with its French influence.

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La Mole Antonelliana di Torino

Torino was seized by Napoleon until its fall, or Napoli, which was contested between  the French and Spaniards dynasties basically up until the Risorgimento or unification of Italy in 1861.

What is amazing about Italy is the uniqueness of its architecture. It is worthwhile to pay close attention to all of its beauty as you travel across the landscapes.

To me a must see is the Reggia of Caserta. Royal Palace from the 18th century and now a UNESCO Heritage Site. Once the home of  Carlo III, Duke of Bourbons and King of the Kingdom of Naples. It’s the largest Royal residence in the world. Need I say more? A must see. reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it

2) Museums, Art Show and Galleries.

It is well obvious that Italy itself is an open air museum yet you will find something under a museum roof that will excite and inspire you to search for more unique beauties in this amazing country. Italians thirst for art and culture allows for hundreds and hundreds of museums, art galleries and theatres to instil knowledge and entertainment. The museum choices are endless, whether it’s affreschi, paintings, sculptures, modern or antique furniture, or… Yes! Even racing cars. 

Museums are everywhere. And you need not be in a big center to take in any of that.

Uffizi Florence italiabound.com
Uffizi Museums in Florence

A must is the Uffizi in Florence   . And one of my favourites, ( although it has nothing to do with Italy) is the Museo Egizio di Torino. It’s the largest Egyptian museum outside Egypt. I need to go back there again. I just love it.

3) Archeological sites

In a Country rich of past civilizations it isn’t hard to find archeological sites to explore. Naturally the ones that come to mind are Pompei,  pompei.it , Ercolano ercolano.beniculturali.it and of course Rome itself.

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Il Colosseo in Rome

In Tuscany or Umbria there are many  archeological sites of the mysterious Etruscan civilization. Particular the Necropolis of Cerveteri and Tarquinia  not to be mistaken for the Necropoli della Banditaccia also near Cerveteri. If you  have the time, you should see both.

Sicily, and  Calabria on the other hand are home of many Greek ruins such as  in the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, where The Temple of Concordia reigns over the Sicilian island. A must see.

Aquileia, founded in 181 BC, in Friuli is rich in Roman ruins, ancient crypts and most recently a newly found Roman port buried under thousand years of dirt grasses and trees. Further north, but by only 40km,  is Cividale, founded in. 53 BC by Julius Cesar.

Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli.

You can discover the history of the Longobardi. It’s path through different civilizations. Amongst many things you must visit the 3rd Century Celtic burial crept –Ipogeo Celtico- www.cividale.com deep in the undergrounds of the town. ( get the key from the restaurant next door or at the travel information center ).

What’s is amazing is that all are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

These among many others, are museum, cities and sites that I personally visited and enjoyed, but thousand more are there waiting  to be discovered by you. That is Why You Should  Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday.  And if you decide to head over to this wonderful country, I can help.

“Til then…Buon viaggio.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Why Spending Time On a Beach in Italy is a Must

Life is a… Beach. Italian Style

So, you want to go to Italy and take advantage of the beautiful summer weather to soak up some sun and swim in the blue warm waters of the Mediterranean. You are hoping to find a nice secluded beach where the only sounds are the waves crashing on the beach.

San Nicola Arcella in Calabria
San Nicola Arcella in Calabria

Unfortunately more often than not, these places are rare to find, as most beaches are often crowded by beachgoers. If tourists flock the scogli (reefs) of Sardegna and Campania or maybe Liguria too between October and May, then that may be the case. In the summer months, on the other hand, Italians live for the beach and water, so they tend to crowd them.

You Wonder Why?

Italian beach culture is a love triangle between Italians, the sea and the sweet life of doing nothing.

21 million Italians will hit the Italian beaches between July and August. Add a “couple” of foreigners, too.. well more like several millions.

Italians rush the beaches for at least 10 days but many will extend their holidays for the whole month.

Many are willing to work extra weekends, save on dinners, sacrifice make-up and fashion purchases so that they can add extra days to their beach holiday.

No other country has a need to be at the beach and under the sun like Italians do. They justify all of this because it’s the only time that they can completely detach from the day to day stress of work, kids, traffic, crowds and everything else that drives them crazy during the year.

54% of Italians will be going on a beach holiday during the year.

85% will go in July and August.

60% of them will stay at least 10 days.

So What Do Italians Do at the Beach?

A typical beach holiday to Italians consists of the following:

  • wake up
  • have breakfast
  • pick up all possible newspapers
  • walk to beach
  • sit under the rental umbrella on their rental loungers until noon
  • head back to hotel or apartment for lunch
  • back down to the beach at around 3 PM, and stay till 6 PM.
  •  shower at the hotel or apartment,
  • go to dinner and then for a passeggiata (stroll) and have a gelato.
  • They do this everyday that they are on holiday.
Don’t Worry… Be Italian

Italians’ only worry is about how dark of a tan they want. This is the time that the saying “il dolce far niente” (the sweet doing nothing ) comes in to play and they bare no excuses for it. During their holiday, each Italian will read 5000 books and newspapers. They even have libraries on the beaches to help with their choices.

Add a few walks down the beach, build a half a dozen sand castles. If you really want to feel Italian, build a sand race track with bent turns and tunnels, get yourself some plastic marbles and race for the ultimate prize…A ghiacciolo al limone ( lemon icecicle).

Now you are set!!

Library on Italian beach
Library on Italian beach

Conversations with umbrella-neighbours centre around politics and soccer or,  more recently, about food and recipes.  Recent surveys show that these are now the most talked about topics on beaches.

Ongoing arguments with their kids about getting in the water too soon after having had a snack are also often overheard.  Italians believe that one should not enter the water for at least three hours after having had food (joking, not joking!).

You Pay for the Convenience

All this doesn’t come cheap of course as the bagni or beach rental sites charge a fair amount for those umbrellas and chairs. In Rimini for instance, one umbrella and 2 sun chairs in the first row in some bagni  will cost around €25 per day or €124 per week. Expect to pay a lot more in more popular places such as Tuscany, Sardegna and Liguria. Even up to €4000 for the season.

Italian beach holiday
Endless umbrellas in Rimini

Public beaches are hard to come by and they are not so… convenient. Italians like convenience, and don’t mind crowds. So to pay for an umbrella or access to a caffè/ bar/ ristorante right on the beach to them is worth the cost. In the evening, life gets even better as the town is invaded by the beachgoers as are the nightclubs, discotheques and restaurants.

Where to Stay

Many Italians like to rent apartments. Hotels are popular, but only because Italians opt for a pensione completa, where all three meals are included in the price.

More often then not, they also tend to go back to the same seaside town, same bagno and even the same row and spot year after year. So their umbrella neighbours are the same every year, making their holiday more familiar as it is a sort of reunion.

I remember as a child spending the whole summer in Lignano Sabbia d’Oro with my grandma and uncles. Every year the same people from Rome would be our neighbours. I remember them always commenting how much I grew from the previous year and over the years they became sort of surrogated relatives. As an adult I even visited them in Rome.

If you are looking for that quiet secluded beach, Italy has plenty throughout the peninsula and you’ll be mesmerized by their beauty, tranquility and cleanliness. But, at the same time, spending a couple of days in a crowded one that defines Italian living, is something special too. At least once in your lifetime you should enjoy the “dolce far niente”. 

Italian invented it and are masters at it. Why not try it.

 

Five Beaches Where You Must Go to Experience il Dolce Far Niente

–Rimini or Riccione in the Emilia Romagna region are probably the most famous beaches of Italy amongst Germans and most European tourists. Endless miles of silky sand and lightly sloped coastline with perfectly tempered water. Ideal for adults and children alike.

–Lignano Sabbia d’ Oro is just one hour east of Venice. This golden sand town has beautiful beaches and reasonable rates.

–Senigallia. Further south from Rimini by 100km and closer to Ancona on the Adriatic side of the Italian coast. Great beaches, great food all with warm southern hospitality.

–Versilia. You are in Tuscany and the beaches of Versilia stretch from Forte dei Marmi to Viareggio. Lido di Camaiore probably has the best beach, but anywhere along this 30km stretch you can’t go wrong. Prices in Tuscany tend to be one of the highest in Italy.

–Alassio. This is a small stretch of beach in the Liguria region in the province of Savona. Stupendous small town on the Ligurian Sea rich of entertainment, restaurants and shops.

BONUS Beaches…

Don’t forget the real south, Calabria, in particular Roccella Ionica. The many Islands including Capri, the Emerald Coast in Sardegna and of course Taormina in Sicily

This is Why You Should Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday and see for yourself why millions of tourists flock the Italian peninsula every year.

“Til then…Buon vaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Dining

5 Things to Know About Dining in Italy

 

Italy’s food culture is unique in many ways. From their passion with slow food, to the diversity of their cuisine varying from one region to an other, and often from town to  town. Food and eating together is the reason why Italians exists.

Life, relationships, family and even work often revolve around the table. Food is to Italians what the heart is to our body. Without it it’s society would die. Everything is planned around that. Although eating is important, just as important are the Italian etiquette around food and restaurants. often quite different from  North America.

 No Need to Tip

1- Unlike in North America where staffing is inexpensive because we expect the restaurant goers to pay for the hired help with tips, in Italy the servers and cooks have a set labour contract. Their wages are completely covered so you don’t need to tip. It’s never expected, but if you like to, it’s a minimal amount.

When is the Best Time to Eat?

2-  Restaurants are not always open ready to serve anytime you feel hungry, unless you are in a tourist infested area. Restaurants tend to open just before noon and stay open until 2:30 PM or so. In some cases, they don’t take tables past 2:00 PM.

They re-open again later around 7 o’clock in the evening and dinners are served until late.  It all depends on the location; downtown, suburbs, big cities, small towns or high traffic areas on highways

. The seasons also play a big role in when restaurants open and close. Most places are closed one day, some two days of the week, usually Monday, Tuesday but also Wednesday or Thursday.

That Seems like a lot of Food

3- Italians eat in courses at both lunch or dinner. They’ll have at least two plus the caffe.

Antipasti. (appetizers) Not to be confused with aperitivi.

Primi. (first dishes) usually those are starches, such pasta or risotto or soup.

Secondi. (second dishes) tent to be meats, fish. Often you would receive the meat by itself with no sides.

Contorni. (side dishes) Arrive with you secondi maybe salads, steamed and cooked vegetables or fries, etc. etc.  These are brought on different plates.

Formaggi (cheeses) Usually this will be a selection of local cheeses.

Dolci. (dessert)

Frutta. (fruit) It is common to finish with fresh fruit. And last but not least…

Caffè. This is always an espresso and sometime it’s corretto which means that grappa or another kind of liquor is added to the caffè. Never ever order a cappuccino or a macchiato at end of meal. It’s frowned upon.

Cover Charge?… for What?

4- Coperto is a cover charge for each person sitting down having dinner. This varies from 1 to even 5 Euros or so depending on the type of restaurant. A pizzeria is usually 1 to 2€ for instance. Osterie style restaurants may not even have one. High-end restaurants will be more. The charge goes back to the medieval days when the inns would charge for using the place when customers would bring  their own food and just used the inn as a refuge from the weather. The cover is for the linen, cutlery and bread. This would be posted on the menu so there are no surprises.

Free Food?

5- Aperitivi are not antipasti, so if you drop in at a bar around 6 o’clock or so you can go for a aperitivo and in most cases food is served with it free of charge. Yes, the food is free, as long as you buy a drink. Some bars (bars in Italy are cafés or wine tasting shops) offer apercena, which translated is aper (aperitif) and cena (dinner).

Here you can literally eat to your heart’s desire and all you pay for is your drinks. Often you do this standing up and/or outside the bar in the street while wandering in and out sampling and eating finger food and chatting the night away. I recommend finding at least one of these places while you are traveling. It’s a great way to see the Italian dolce vita at work while sampling different dishes and wines. Here you pay before you eat.

BONUS…

You must always ask for the bill, as waiters will not bring it to you automatically at the end of your meal. It would be considered extremely rude to do that. The reasoning behind this is that the evening is not finished just because the food is. Italians often stay and talk for hours after the caffè and only when they are ready to leave they ask ( by a hand wave) the bill.

DOUBLE BONUS…

Lately all over Italy and mostly in the larger cities a new phenomenon  is occurring.

Restaurants where the “ imbonitori” stand outside and invite you in. You’ve seen them in the Latin Quarters in Paris and there they belong. But in Italy…No thank you! Often these hosts offer a free appetizer or a drink (but you will pay for it in other ways) to entice you to enter. They may even tell you that they serve the best pasta in town.

It’s pretty obvious that these are only really inviting tourist as regular restaurant goers would never think of being duped by these individuals. If they need to ” invite”, the food is usually not that good. Even Italian tourists in their own country would never go here so why should you?

AVOID at all cost these places. Stay clear. But, if you do go, you then lose the right to complain that you’ve been to Italy and the food was terrible.  You have been warned.

“Uomo avvisato mezzo salvato”.

Translation : Man that has been warned,  is a man half saved”

‘Till then… Buon Viaggio!

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

 

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