You’ve seen thousands of photos of Italy and its rolling hills covered in rows of vines and narrow roads serpentining through vineyards. You’ve marvelled at hilltop medieval towns overlooking olive trees and you have definitely tasted both olive oil and wine. Although you may even have had the chance to enjoy a plate of risotto, you’ve probably never really wondered where the rice came from.
Rice… the Underminded Cereal
Italy not only produces rice for its traditional dishes, but is the number oneproducer and exporter in Europe. Ironically, they even export it to…China. The majority of the rice production in Italy is divided amongst three provinces in the north. Vercelli, Pavia and Novara.
Italian Carnaroli Rice
Rice grows in flat areas, therefore over the years these provinces have seen an increase of interest by tourists to visit and explore these plains. Easy walking and cycling tours have dramatically increased, and honestly there is nothing more relaxing and educational than to do just that. Many of these 16th, 17th and 18th century majestic farms, or cascineas they are known, are to this day still functioning. Visitors can enjoy hours exploring the history and relax in the fresh air.
Restored Farms Brought Back to Life
In recent years, many more cascine have been restored to bring out their natural beauty. Up until the middle of the last century, hundreds of people would work in one of these cascine. They were located far from the towns (at least in those days it seemed far) and needed to be self-sufficient. This meant having their own bakeries, butchers, blacksmiths, tailors and of course churches. Although these cascine were essentially working villages, art and creativity and decor weren’t overlooked while building them. They were also fortress-like and during the night time its gates would be closed to keep any undesirables out.
Affreschi, Tapestries,and Sculptures
A Cascina amongst rice
Some of the most beautiful architecture can be found on these farms. Nowadays, walking or cycling along these roads and paths of the rice paddies gives you a great opportunity to view how things were three or four hundred years ago. Working in these fields was exceptionally hard work that both men and women shared equally. Women, aside from doing the traditional jobs of maintaining the household, were also very active as mondine, planting the rice and harvesting it. Now these risaie, (rice paddies) still exist, but there is only a dozen or so people needed to continue producing rice. Modernization in the sixties and later slowly eliminated the thousands of jobs that this industry employed. Nowadays, production has increased, but manpower has dwindled.
Sanctuaries Among the Rice Fields
These fields have also become sanctuaries for birds, pheasants, wild rabbits and other small animals. Many farms have donated land to wildlife sanctuaries and these co-exist with the farmers that still cultivate rice.
Photographs by Francesca Cesa Bianchi
Nowadays with the use of cars these risaieare not as so far away from bigger centres or towns. Reaching them is hardly a trek. Bike and hike trails are mostly paved, making a self-guided tour a pleasant addition to any trip to Italy.
5 Things You Probably Never Knew About Rice in Italy
The provinces of Novara and Vercelli are in the Piemonte region and the province of Pavia is in Lombardia. All are easily accessible by train and/or car. Milano Malpensa Airport is less than 90 kilometres from any of these three provinces.
The very famous types of rice grown in these areas are Arborio and Carnaroli. These kinds are ideal for the traditional dishes such as risotto or paniscia.
In the town of Casalbeltrame in the province of Novara, there is a superb museum. L’ Civel, http://www.casalbeltrameonline.it/ recreates the old traditional ways these risaie worked. You can walk through the guided tour (in English) and listen to the songs the mondine would be singing while harvesting in the paddies. You can see the equipment and tools that were used, and re-live their methods of harvesting the rice from over 120 years ago. For this small town of less than a thousand habitants, this museum is truly a hidden gem. And since touring brings an appetite, I would recommend stopping at the trattoria which has the same name and enjoying a wonderful plate of paniscia.
Rice seeds are planted in the spring and harvested in September or October. During the spring and summer, the paddies are full of water and the rice “plant” grows up to one and half metres or five feet tall. Once harvested, it is brought in to dry and aged. Aging increases the starch in the rice and makes for better cooking.
Italians and Italian dishes never use rice as a side dish. It is always served as a primo piatto(first course), such as risotto, which is usually reserved for starchy dishes. My personal favourites are Risotto allo Champagne or Risotto con Porcini (mushrooms).
Since these beautiful farms are more easily accessible if have a car, I recommend you to read my post 3 Things to Know About Driving in Italy, to have a better understaning on what drives Italians…
“Til then…Buon viaggio.
Are you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post? Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.
Whether I travel with my family, a group or alone, farmhouses –agriturismo- are my favourite types of accommodations in Italy.
An Agriturismo as well as a Relais such as the one below, set the mood for any vacation. Imagine waking up in a century old villa, or spending some time visiting and even helping out on a working farm. Perhaps indulging in a spa in a XVI century castle.
Relais Canalicchio. Beautifull relaxing stay in a very suggestive setting. A must when in Umbria
Beautifully attended rooms with all the amenities yet surrounded by farms, rolling vineyards or century old woods. Often prices are less than hotels and because you are in the outskirts of town you will feel more relaxed, alive and immerse. You’ll feel at home.
Majestic welcome at Hotel Danielli in Venice
Choose you accommodations wisely
Often you will need a car if you plan to stay in these places. If the plan was to only see Italy by train you’ll need to rethink your trip or your accommodations.
If you have no alternative but to use the public transportation, hotels in the cities are easier for your travels.
Some agriturismi may be able to shuttle you to town or lend you bicycles, but it makes it somewhat more expensive to only rely on shuttles and taxis to get to and from. Everything is possible but often it’ll come with a price.
Book Hotels in the City Only as a Must
If you have a car on the other hand, I would discourage anyone from staying in hotels in the cities. Parking is at a premium. Most cities have ZTL (zones where traffic is limited) if not restricted all together.
limited transit city sign
The traffic itself is heavy even if you may know where you are going. Some hotels are in such old buildings that don’t even offer parking at all. In most cases you book hotel through booking sites, you find a great deal on the room but the parking costs are not mentioned. And, if they do offer parking, sometimes you may have to walk a few blocks to an authorized parkade. Street parking is impossible at best and you’ll likely get a ticket.
Florence for instance is €68 for a parking infraction. I once helped a client who at all costs wanted to stay in downtown Florence. I found the hotel for the price he wanted but the parking was extra- 35€ per night extra, at that time. The problem was also that the garage was quite far and the concierge had to book a pick up time at least two hours before my client needed the car. Hardly convenient, but like most centri storici (an old part of town) the buildings were built way before cars were invented.
Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli. Narrow streets in medieval town
Other options of course are AirBnB and VRBO but even then if they are in the city core, parking may come at a premium. Plus, you have to pay in advance and often have no cancellation refund policies. Still, it’s a good alternative for some.
Things to Know Before Booking in an Agriturismo or Farmhouse
When planning your trip, check out the locations and areas you want to visit, and then find an agriturismo that is central, yet has all the amenities that you need.
San Gimignano. Consider your interests when planning your stay
You would want to change accommodations as less often as possible on your holiday, so a well located place makes all the difference. Also, some places may require a minimum night’s stay. So, the more nights you stay, sometimes the lower the nightly rate.
Ask Questions
It’s also a good idea to check what’s included in the daily rate. At some places, the meals are included, and in others just the breakfast. Some are rooms only, others may offer full kitchens. If they offer meals, they may ask you in advance what your meal preferences are.
Once, I stayed in a farmhouse that included a full meal plan (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), and because we were sightseeing during the day they prepared beautiful lunches to take in beautiful picnic baskets. However, that’s not always the case. Always just ask first. And if you are planning to be away lots, maybe a half meal plan or no plan at all is better for you.
Many places offer a lot more than a place to sleep. Research the agriturismo and see what else they offer. You might modify your stay because of the extra curricular activities that they offer. You’ll never know what they have in store for you. Cooking classes, horseback riding or even… picking olives.
Agriturismi are in the countryside and far enough from the centers that a car is necessary. If you don’t have one, make sure that they have a shuttle or some kind arrangement with a transport company. Tour guides will pick you up as well and I’ve arranged for bikes or mopeds to be delivered by rental companies in advance for customers to use.
Ask More Questions…
In many places, English is spoken very well. So although you can book online, I would recommend calling them personally and asking all the questions before booking. Because often, they are family owned and not franchises, the individual on the other line is always very helpful, as negative ratings don’t help their business. So, get acquainted with them. Sometimes prices are better when you call as opposed to simply booking online.
Your Holiday. Make it the Best Ever
Accommodations are a big part of your experience as well as a good chunk of your budget therefore spend the right enough time and money so thatyour holiday is not ruined by it. The more you research the region and the type of accommodation the easier it is in the long run to enjoy a truly amazing adventure.
‘Till then… Buon Viaggio
Don’t forget to read other favorite posts from Italiaboud.com.
Are you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post? Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.
One of the top questions or concerns I get when people book their holidays in Italy is about traffic and driving in Europe. Many people have heard of the Autostrada – the speeds, the fancy cars, and crazy European drivers – and are intimidated by the thought of having to do it themselves.
I’ve even heard many clients tell me that they will only take trains or buses as they did not even consider driving in Italy as an option given their fears. This would be a HUGE mistake as not only would you be missing out on views you would not otherwise see, but also, you’d be missing out on some of the most unique adventures that you can have that you otherwise would not enjoy if you only used public transportation.
These are my top three tips for driving on the Italian highways:
Limited Traffic
City centers are often closed off from traffic for environmental reasons. And those that are not usually have ZTL signs. That means area (zona) has limited (limitato) traffic (traffico) which means you need a pass to permit. Most GPS systems will tell you that.
limited transit city sign
In some cases only certain streets are viable and a wrong turn will net you a photograph and a fine. So for instance, Google ZTL Firenze and see the times, locations and parking that is available if you choose to go to Florence by car.
Gas Stations not Always Open
Gas stations are run just like any other business in Italy. They are mostly closed for lunch from about 12:30-3pm or 3:30pm. They are not open on Sundays or holidays. So make sure your car is filled on Saturday for instance. Automated 24 hour stations are available but make sure you have a 4 digit pin card (whether it’s a debit card or credit card). Cash is not a problem. You will need to spend some time figuring out the pump at the automated one, and English translation is not always available. The best bet is to go to one when it’s open and fill up there. Usually an attendant will fill it up for you. On the autostrada, stations are always open. Here, fuel can be more expensive and prices do very from city to city.
Rent a Car… But Be Wise
Visiting Italy by car is by far the best way to see the country. The one great thing about renting vehicles in Italy is that you can drop the car off in any other city within Italy and not have to pay a drop-off fee. In Italy, all rentals come with CDW coverage so you can’t take advantage of your credit card to cover that cost. Airport pick-ups have extra fees, so the best way to save some money is to figure out when you need the car and rent accordingly. For instance, you arrive in Rome Fiumicino airport and your plan is to spend four days in Rome and then head to the Amalfi coast for four more days.. Take a shuttle, a cab or Uber to your hotel in Rome. Rome is best enjoyed by foot and a car would only be an expensive inconvenience.
Use Train as Alternative
Train stations are always in the downtown of the cities therefore on your forth day you can take the train to Sorrento and pick up the car there. You need a car for the windy Amalfi coast and the surroundings such as Pompei, Ercolano or Salerno. Using public transportation here would only add lots of time and extra expenses as well you would not be able to enjoy those sights at your own pace.
The savings are substantial. Just parking in Rome alone for four days could cost you €150. Unless there are four or six of you, the train to Sorrento is way cheaper than tolls, gas and time spent trying to get out the congested Italian capital. Since you are also renting the car in the city and not at an airport, you will be spared the extra airport tax that all rentals have. There is no tax if you drop off the car at an airport.
Unless you are renting a compact car most cars are diesel (gasolio). If you do have a choice, get a diesel car. The fuel is about 20-30% cheaper than gas and the mileage is much better. With my last car, I averaged about 5,5L per 100km or 43MPG. And at € 1.40 per litre, you would want good mileage
Check out my other post on the Italian autostrada ( freeways ) for more insights on driving in Italy.
“Till then…Buon viaggio.
Are you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post? Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.
‘I hear you are going to Italy this summer…. will you be driving there?”
“No way! They are crazy drivers over there.”
Not Really Crazy Drivers
It’s certainly fair to say that Italians don’t drive defensively, but to say they are crazy drivers is certainly overkill.
Not all Italian drivers are aspiring Formula One drivers and you will find all sorts just like anywhere else in the world. I think what makes tourists a bit squeamish about driving there, is that it isn’t so much the drivers on the road, but the roads themselves and the country’s landscape. Italy can put a road where only Italians can see it fit.
Driving in the country, you’ll notice beautiful landscapes, but paying attention to the roads is a must, as often they serpentine through fields of poppies or lavender while climbing to small towns that don’t even seem to have roads- just very narrow mulattiere (old mule trails that are now paved).
Medieval town on top of rocky slope. Are there roads there?
Towns that from a distance look as if they sit on top of a rock somehow have narrow streets that fit and run through them. Of course you also share narrow roads with a bicycle, a Vespa or motorcycle, which tend to pass cars at any moment they feel like it- solid lines or not. Then, you arrive in a larger center of a town, only to find out that traffic is often limited or prohibited all together, especially in the centrostorico(the historic part of the city or town). At least here you can walk and not worry about getting run over… But still look out for those Vespas!
Driving in Italy actually is very much like anywhere else in North America or Europe. They drive on the same side as the US and Canada. The rules are pretty well the same and although speed limits are in kilometres instead of miles, generally Italian drivers tend to respect the law as well. But really, the beauty of driving in Italy is the civilized way that they constructed theirautostrade(freeways). Hands down, no other freeways are like the Italian ones. Even the autobahn fails in comparison. Yes, you have to pay for them, but here you get to enjoy reaching your destinations in no time.
The Autostrada…Italy’s Toll Highway
Easy direction signs
Firstly, all autostrade signs are always green, where as stradastatale (state or other roads) signs are in blue. The casello (or tollbooth) is the only place where you can enter the autostrada and exit. All exits are always to the right and well indicated. When you enter the autostrada you take a ticket- it’s not likely you can enter without taking one anyways, as the arm will not lift and let you continue- but what’s important is that once you do take the ticket, you don’t lose it. You will be fined heavily. Just look for a sign that says biglietto (ticket) and the drawing of a driver reaching for a ticket.
Push on the big red button and a ticket shoots out. Once you enter the freeway, it’s like entering a race track. However, the similarities end there. There is a speed limit of 130 km/hr. It’s less in the tunnels (110 km/hr) and less yet if there is construction. Drive at your own pace as long as you follow the rules of the land. Another great thing about the autostrada is the constant signage telling you how far the next stazione di servizio (gas station) is, as well as signposts pointing out point of interest such as an XI century castle or a XV century monastery, for instance. When the exit sign is posted, you usually have another sign that points out all the other destinations when taking that particular exit. That’s very handy, because often the place that you are going may be on that sign although the exit itself may not be called that..
Everything you Need in the Autostrada
What’s great is that gas stations are just like a pits stop on a race track. Put your signal on, slowdown, stop at the pump, the attendees runs out fills the tank, you pay and you merge into traffic. It’s impossible to go in the wrong direction, unlike here in Canada and the states where you don’t have to leave the freeway and head out searching for a gas station. Incidentally, if you are using diesel, in Italy it’s called gasolio and gas is benzinaor senza piombo. The gasolio handle is yellow but sometimes blue. Benzina is always green. But wait… although the pit stop can be quick, the best part of the autostrada is the pit stop itself. In particular, the Autogrill. Some are so large that they sprawl over all six lanes of traffic.
Autogrill. Courtesy of Panoramio
Autogrill Driving Experience
Here you will find the opportunity to refill your stomach with great local foods, panini, pastries cappuccini and of course great local gastronomic gifts. Although Autogrill is a franchise and found all over the autostrada(e), they all have a distinct local feeling. For instance, if you’re driving through Emilia Romagna you will find Prosciutto diParma or Culatetto, as well as other typical foods the area. But if you are driving in the vicinity of Trento in the north you will find Speckor maybe Pancetta Stesa e Affumicataon their shelves. These Autogrill are sometimes so big that they straddle all six lanes of traffic, with sit down restaurants, self service buffets and/or quick service grab and go eateries. It’s unlikely that you wouldn’t find something to satisfy your appetite, even if you are not hungry.
A couple of rules to follow: the parking lot is an ideal place for individuals who prey on tourists and on cars full of luggage, so pay attention to your surroundings. I’ve stopped at Autogrill probably a thousand times and nothing has ever happened, but I still check my surroundings every time and hide things visible in the car. I know it’s common sense but nonetheless worth mentioning.
How the toll System Works
Toll booth before entering the autostrada
Exiting the freeway is quite simple. Look for signage above the tolls that say Viacard and/or Carte in blue (credit cards) or Telepass in yellow. Avoid the yellow painted lane directing you to the Telepass. That’s for those who have a device installed in their vehicles and are billed at home.
As a tourist, you likely have a car rental and won’t have that device. So avoid it and head for the one with Euro bills and coins on it if you are paying with cash or follow the blue painted lane with Viacardwhich accepts credit cards.
When you arrive at the booth, insert the ticket that was handed to you earlier, with the arrow pointing into the slot and then insert the credit card in the same slot. The machine will spit out your card so don’t panic. The bar will rise and a lovely voice will tell you “arrivederci.” If you want a receipt, press the button before inserting the card.
Pay at toll when exiting the highway.
Know When to Choose and Limit the Autostrada to Save When Driving
Using the autostrada is not inexpensive. Budget 10-15 cents per kilometre travelled. The time that you will save is irreplaceable. For instance, the threehour drive from Florence to Rome on the autostrada equals to 8 hours if you decide to take the free Via Cassia or SS2 as you go into every little town and village on the way. You will hit all the lights and stop signs, roundabouts as well as dealing with traffic in general. The surroundings may be spectacular and the scenery breathtaking but… it comes down to time and what is more important. That’s usually where I come in with options and recommendations with clients. Sort of choosing your battles. Maybe dividing up the trip between autostrada and the statale(country roads) based on what you want to see, where you need to be and how much time you have at your disposal.
Also important to know, on the autostrada the gas stations are open 24 hours and 7 days a week. But in the city or throughout the countryside, they open at 7am, usually close for lunch 12:30-3 or 3:30, and close again for the night at 7:30-8pm depending on the season and the area. Often they are closed on Sunday, so filling up on Saturday if you are planning a drive the next day is a good idea. There are automated gas stations, you just have to spend some time trying to figure them out.
Clear signs make driving easy in Italy
Excellent Signs and well Marked Directions
Although traffic signs are pretty well the same as rest of Europe and North America, one thing for sure is that you can not turn right on a red light. Since they drive on the right hand side of the road, it eliminates the worry of figuring out the traffic flow and direction.
Another interesting thing is that on the autostrada police will often have the Tutor Speed Control Systemset up to catch speeders, but they need to “advertise” that they are there. Often you’ll see electronic signs warning that “controllo di velocità” is active.( There will be a separate post on avoiding speed traps)
Polizia cars on duty always drive with their emergency lights on, so you can see them from a distance. It’s unlikely that they will pull you over. Usually they just pull up, enter your license plate in their system and move on. Tutor is the way they catch speeders. Also, as I mentioned earlier, tunnels have 110km/hr limits so those nice cameras often are set up just outside the mouth of the tunnel. Ideally you hit the brake just as you exit and you are good. Police will use the Tutor in the autostrade, and the autovelox system on all other roads. Just remember the speed limits and you are ok.
Stay in Your Lane and You’ll be Fine
Unlike North America, the lanes on the autostrada have minimum designated speeds. For instance, on a three lane the right lane is for busses, semis or any slow moving vehicle (maybe a motor home too). They can move to the center lane only to pass a slower car, but must return to the right lane right away. The middle lane is for anyone that is traveling at the speed of at least 90 km/hr up to 130 km/hr and the left lane is left for those that need to pass the middle commuters. DO NOT use a lane to the right to pass under any circumstance. The fines are high if not a complete license takeaway.
Headlights must always be on in the freeway and if it is raining heavy you should use the rear fog light. So as you read this, driving in Italy is not crazy at all. It’s simply a matter of getting used to their ways which are not so different from ours. For myself, I always rent cars when I arrive at airports,- make sure you have a international driver’s licence. You can easily purchase onet at any AAA or CAA agencies.
If you want to save money you can plan to rent cars only for the days that you must drive. Use the trains where it is most convenient. When I work with a client and we plan the trip, I always look at opportunities in minimizing the use of the car. Not so much because they are “crazy drivers” but because it can be expensive if not used wisely. Gasoline is expensive and also parking in major cities can be very expensive and hard to find. At the hotels downtown, I’ve seen parking as high as €50 per night so it would make sense to plan your car needs so as to avoid unnecessary expenses.
Are you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post? Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.
“We are going to be in Rome, on the Amalfi Coast, in Tuscany, and near Siena. What other interesting places are there to see?” This is one of the most asked question to me by friends or clients travelling to Italy.
That question carries a lot of weight. Italy is not a place that has a hundred interesting things to see nor a thousand. Italy may have its name to claim monuments, but the reality is that on your way from one monument to the next there may be 600 more interesting places and towns to see, and often more beautiful or interesting than what you were on your way to see originally.
Milan’s Duomo
You could be in a small town station waiting for a train to Rome, for instance, and just by looking around you notice unique architectural delights.
Italy’s Cultural Pride
Italy and Italians over the century had and still do have lots of pride in their everyday work. The buildings were never built with only practicality in mind. They were built to reflect the culture, the people, therefore the times. Nothing says more about an architect, than the style of building that he or she builds. Fountains were designed with grandeur ideas and looks in mind. The “big square box” North American style buildings are never considered even in today’s Italy. Fortunately, laws are in place to prevent that. MilanoCentrale, as an example, was finished in 1931 by Mussolini. Its grandeur reflects his ego yet creates pride amongst Milanesi, even if most of them never were or no longer are fascists. It’s a mixture of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and fascism. Oh yes! and trains are supposed to stop there as well.
The marble floors and ticket wicket in Cuneo
Small Places as Interesting as…
Cuneo train station, to remain on the rail stations theme, is a beautiful architectural wonder that mesmerizes the average train user. It looks more like a museum. The restoration is meant to recreate what the original designers envisioned.
interesting details of the brass stairs handle by marble stairs
Cuneo is a town of just around 56,000 people nestled in the southwester area of Piemonte and hardly has the volume of tourists that Milan has. Nonetheless, when you come upon this town and its train station, you will be impressed.
To this day, Italians are leaders as they pour their pride in fashion, automotive, furniture design, and culinary delights, and that’s only the tip of the iceberg. This pride and artistic creativity is represented in everyday living. It makes for a more inspiring environment, therefore everyone benefits from. The way they dress, what they eat, how they socialize and how they live represent centuries of rich traditions, history and pride.
When asked “what else is there to see?”, the only answer that I can give is this: Keep your eyes, mind and senses always open and everywhere you go will never cease to amaze you. Italy is to tourists what a candy store is to a child.
Are you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post? Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.
