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Langhe, Barolo ,Italia Bound, UNESCO
Adventure

Langhe: Italy’s Best Kept Secret

An incredible alternative to the Chianti area is Piemonte’s Langhe area. This rich wine region has everything that a tourist is looking for in a holiday. The Langhe area is first class in food, architecture, wine and nature. Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Moscato are just a few of the many wines produced here and sold throughout the world. It is also an UNESCO  World Heritage protected region.

The Secret is out

The hills around Cherasco were described by Napoleon as God’s gift and the food is second to none. Porcini, Truffles, Brasato al Barolo or Agnolotti del Plin are traditional, -must -try dishes when you are in the Langhe. But, don’t stop with just those.

art and culture, Piemonte, Italia Bound

I’ve known individual that arrive at Milan Malpensa airport, rent a car and head straight to Tuscany because they want to experience the Italian wine region, not realizing much closer is probably one of the most incredible wine areas in the world. Of course if you are going to sip wine you need good food and the Langhe doesn’t disappoint. 

Brasato al Barolo, Langhe, Italia Bound
Brasato al Barolo

Canelli is in the province of Asti, not even two hours south of Milan. Here your memorable journey will start. Great food, amazing architecture, beautiful landscapes, renowned wines, and not only.

Grappa Before Wine?

 The hilltop town is our first stop. Canelli is on the border between Monferrato and the Langhe subregions. As we  first stroll through this beautiful town we need to make a quick stop at the Pasticceria Bosca and saviour some of the best pastries in the area, possibly with a glass of Moscato. Famous brands such as Cinzano, Matini & Rossi, Gancia are all from here.

The best comes as we arrive at the Distilleria Bocchino. Here you can take a tour of the distillery and sample some Grappa of Moscato. Bocchino in 1898 was the first to make grappa piemontese from single origin grape thus making it not only particular but also celebrated. Today this 5th generation family owned distillery produces world renowned grappa. 

 Once back on the road, we head to none other than the town of Barolo. But, before approaching the town we will make a quick detour in Grinzane Cavour where its majestic castle overlooks the beautiful wine valley. 

Matteo Marra, Barolo, Langhe, Italia Bound
Matteo Marra, Barolo

Rolling Around

Off to Barolo for a quick lunch at one of its many phenomenal restaurants; my favorite being Matteo Morra. We then head 6 kilometres up the hill to La Morra where we stroll through Trails of Barolo to help us digest our latest culinary experience.

Architectural Wonders

We could be ready for a nap but instead we head to Dogliani. The Neo Gothic town, unique for this area, is a must for visitors. We will also visit the Bar Pasticceria da Cerrina for a caffè and fabulous pastries and then make our way to Cà Nueva. Here, the Abbona family has been producing wine since the 1800’s.

Several wines are produced at the azienda Cà Nueva and a tour of the structure and tasting is a great way to end a day after wandering through some of the best hills and valleys of the Langhe. 

Grinzane Cavour, Langhe, Italia Bound
Grinzane Cavour Castle

Relax and Re-charge

By now it is probably getting late so we head north to Alba where we can dine at one of the many restaurants or at my favorite; Boia Fauss Pensavo Peggio. Just the name is intriguing enough to make you want to try it. Later, sip the evening away as we recharge for the next day. 

Tomorrow is an Other Day

La Morra, Langhe ,Italia Bound, Italian holiday Davide Fattor
Barolo and the Langhe UNESCO Heritage

Alba itself is full day of exploring, and a must. Otherwise on to Bastia Mondovì and in particular the winery Bricco del Cuccù. If you do, and you should, ask to view the Chapel of San Fiorenzo. A rare sight of Goth Piemontese affrescos and view the famous affresco of the 7 Sins. There is more to see. Bra, Cherasco or the castles of  Serralunga d’Alba, and Roddi await us. Not to mention the many other towns, restaurants, shops, wineries and museums throughout the Langhe. 

This culturally rich region provides tourists, foodies, wine lovers and nature lovers some of the best kept secrets in Italy. The proximity to Milan, Turin, Genova and the easiness to access the small towns make the Langhe a must to any Italian itinerary. 

For ways to reach Italy check out my blogs on Getting Around Italy on Planes and Trains

Many thanks to Enrico of  http://www.langhe.net for his assistance and recommendations in creating this itinerary. 

Naturally this is only the tip of the “Langhe” iceberg and if you would like more information or help in organizing a trip through this region or any other part of Italy, drop a line here below or at contact me privately at info@italiabound.com

If you find this article useful please share it with your fellow travellers and on social media.

‘Till then…Buon Viaggio. 

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Cinque Terre Italian Beach
Adventure

Why Spending Time On a Beach in Italy is a Must

Life is a… Beach. Italian Style

So, you want to go to Italy and take advantage of the beautiful summer weather to soak up some sun and swim in the blue warm waters of the Mediterranean. You are hoping to find a nice secluded beach where the only sounds are the waves crashing on the beach.

San Nicola Arcella in Calabria
San Nicola Arcella in Calabria

Unfortunately more often than not, these places are rare to find, as most beaches are often crowded by beachgoers. If tourists flock the scogli (reefs) of Sardegna and Campania or maybe Liguria too between October and May, then that may be the case. In the summer months, on the other hand, Italians live for the beach and water, so they tend to crowd them.

You Wonder Why?

Italian beach culture is a love triangle between Italians, the sea and the sweet life of doing nothing.

21 million Italians will hit the Italian beaches between July and August. Add a “couple” of foreigners, too.. well more like several millions.

Italians rush the beaches for at least 10 days but many will extend their holidays for the whole month.

Many are willing to work extra weekends, save on dinners, sacrifice make-up and fashion purchases so that they can add extra days to their beach holiday.

No other country has a need to be at the beach and under the sun like Italians do. They justify all of this because it’s the only time that they can completely detach from the day to day stress of work, kids, traffic, crowds and everything else that drives them crazy during the year.

54% of Italians will be going on a beach holiday during the year.

85% will go in July and August.

60% of them will stay at least 10 days.

So What Do Italians Do at the Beach?

A typical beach holiday to Italians consists of the following:

  • wake up
  • have breakfast
  • pick up all possible newspapers
  • walk to beach
  • sit under the rental umbrella on their rental loungers until noon
  • head back to hotel or apartment for lunch
  • back down to the beach at around 3 PM, and stay till 6 PM.
  •  shower at the hotel or apartment,
  • go to dinner and then for a passeggiata (stroll) and have a gelato.
  • They do this everyday that they are on holiday.
Don’t Worry… Be Italian

Italians’ only worry is about how dark of a tan they want. This is the time that the saying “il dolce far niente” (the sweet doing nothing ) comes in to play and they bare no excuses for it. During their holiday, each Italian will read 5000 books and newspapers. They even have libraries on the beaches to help with their choices.

Add a few walks down the beach, build a half a dozen sand castles. If you really want to feel Italian, build a sand race track with bent turns and tunnels, get yourself some plastic marbles and race for the ultimate prize…A ghiacciolo al limone ( lemon icecicle).

Now you are set!!

Library on Italian beach
Library on Italian beach

Conversations with umbrella-neighbours centre around politics and soccer or,  more recently, about food and recipes.  Recent surveys show that these are now the most talked about topics on beaches.

Ongoing arguments with their kids about getting in the water too soon after having had a snack are also often overheard.  Italians believe that one should not enter the water for at least three hours after having had food (joking, not joking!).

You Pay for the Convenience

All this doesn’t come cheap of course as the bagni or beach rental sites charge a fair amount for those umbrellas and chairs. In Rimini for instance, one umbrella and 2 sun chairs in the first row in some bagni  will cost around €25 per day or €124 per week. Expect to pay a lot more in more popular places such as Tuscany, Sardegna and Liguria. Even up to €4000 for the season.

Italian beach holiday
Endless umbrellas in Rimini

Public beaches are hard to come by and they are not so… convenient. Italians like convenience, and don’t mind crowds. So to pay for an umbrella or access to a caffè/ bar/ ristorante right on the beach to them is worth the cost. In the evening, life gets even better as the town is invaded by the beachgoers as are the nightclubs, discotheques and restaurants.

Where to Stay

Many Italians like to rent apartments. Hotels are popular, but only because Italians opt for a pensione completa, where all three meals are included in the price.

More often then not, they also tend to go back to the same seaside town, same bagno and even the same row and spot year after year. So their umbrella neighbours are the same every year, making their holiday more familiar as it is a sort of reunion.

I remember as a child spending the whole summer in Lignano Sabbia d’Oro with my grandma and uncles. Every year the same people from Rome would be our neighbours. I remember them always commenting how much I grew from the previous year and over the years they became sort of surrogated relatives. As an adult I even visited them in Rome.

If you are looking for that quiet secluded beach, Italy has plenty throughout the peninsula and you’ll be mesmerized by their beauty, tranquility and cleanliness. But, at the same time, spending a couple of days in a crowded one that defines Italian living, is something special too. At least once in your lifetime you should enjoy the “dolce far niente”. 

Italian invented it and are masters at it. Why not try it.

 

Five Beaches Where You Must Go to Experience il Dolce Far Niente

–Rimini or Riccione in the Emilia Romagna region are probably the most famous beaches of Italy amongst Germans and most European tourists. Endless miles of silky sand and lightly sloped coastline with perfectly tempered water. Ideal for adults and children alike.

–Lignano Sabbia d’ Oro is just one hour east of Venice. This golden sand town has beautiful beaches and reasonable rates.

–Senigallia. Further south from Rimini by 100km and closer to Ancona on the Adriatic side of the Italian coast. Great beaches, great food all with warm southern hospitality.

–Versilia. You are in Tuscany and the beaches of Versilia stretch from Forte dei Marmi to Viareggio. Lido di Camaiore probably has the best beach, but anywhere along this 30km stretch you can’t go wrong. Prices in Tuscany tend to be one of the highest in Italy.

–Alassio. This is a small stretch of beach in the Liguria region in the province of Savona. Stupendous small town on the Ligurian Sea rich of entertainment, restaurants and shops.

BONUS Beaches…

Don’t forget the real south, Calabria, in particular Roccella Ionica. The many Islands including Capri, the Emerald Coast in Sardegna and of course Taormina in Sicily

This is Why You Should Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday and see for yourself why millions of tourists flock the Italian peninsula every year.

“Til then…Buon vaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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rice fields Italy Novara, Vercelli, Pavia, Italiabound.com
Adventure

Not Just Grapes and Olives…Rice, Too.

You’ve seen thousands of photos of Italy and its rolling hills covered in rows of vines and narrow roads serpentining through vineyards. You’ve marvelled at hilltop medieval towns overlooking olive trees and you have definitely tasted both olive oil and wine. Although you may even have had the chance to enjoy a plate of risotto, you’ve probably never really wondered where the rice came from.

Rice… the Underminded Cereal

Italy not only produces rice for its traditional dishes, but is the number one producer and exporter in Europe. Ironically, they even export it to…China.  The majority of the rice production in Italy is divided amongst three provinces in the north. Vercelli, Pavia and Novara.

Italian Carnaroli Rice
Italian Carnaroli Rice

Rice grows in flat areas, therefore over the years these provinces have seen an increase of interest by tourists to visit and explore these plains. Easy walking and cycling tours have dramatically increased, and honestly there is nothing more relaxing and educational than to do just that. Many of these 16th, 17th and 18th century majestic farms, or cascine as they are known, are to this day still functioning. Visitors can enjoy hours exploring the history and relax in the fresh air.

Restored Farms Brought Back to Life

In recent years, many more cascine have been restored to bring out their natural beauty. Up until the middle of the last century, hundreds of people would work in one of these cascine. They were located far from the towns (at least in those days it seemed far) and  needed to be self-sufficient. This meant having their own bakeries, butchers, blacksmiths, tailors and of course churches. Although these cascine were essentially working villages, art and creativity and decor weren’t overlooked while building them. They were also fortress-like and during the night time its gates would be closed to keep any undesirables out.

Affreschi, Tapestries, and Sculptures

A Cascina amongst rice
A Cascina amongst rice

Some of the most beautiful architecture can be found on these farms. Nowadays, walking or cycling along these roads and paths of the rice paddies gives you a great opportunity to view how things were three or four hundred years ago. Working in these fields was exceptionally hard work that both men and women shared equally. Women, aside from doing the traditional jobs of maintaining the household, were also very active as mondine, planting the rice and harvesting it. Now these risaie, (rice paddies) still exist, but there is only a dozen or so people needed to continue producing rice. Modernization in the sixties and later slowly eliminated the thousands of jobs that this industry employed. Nowadays, production has increased, but manpower has dwindled.

Sanctuaries Among the Rice Fields

These fields have also become sanctuaries for birds, pheasants, wild rabbits and other small animals. Many farms have donated land to wildlife sanctuaries and these co-exist with the farmers that still cultivate rice.

wild bird sanctuary in Italy rice fields
Photographs by Francesca Cesa Bianchi

  • Nowadays with the use of cars these risaie are not as so far away from bigger centres or towns. Reaching them is hardly a trek. Bike and hike trails are mostly paved, making a self-guided tour a pleasant addition to any trip to Italy.

 

5 Things You Probably Never Knew About Rice in Italy
  • The provinces of Novara and Vercelli are in the Piemonte region and the province of Pavia is in Lombardia. All are easily accessible by train and/or car. Milano Malpensa Airport is less than 90 kilometres from any of these three provinces.
  • The very famous types of rice grown in these areas are Arborio and Carnaroli. These kinds are ideal for the traditional dishes such as risotto or paniscia.
  • In the town of Casalbeltrame in the province of Novara,  there is a superb museum. L’ Civel, http://www.casalbeltrameonline.it/  recreates the old traditional ways these risaie worked. You can walk through the guided tour (in English) and listen to the songs the mondine  would be singing while harvesting in the paddies. You can see the equipment and tools that were used, and re-live their methods of harvesting the rice from over 120 years ago. For this small town of less than a thousand habitants, this museum is truly a hidden gem. And since touring brings an appetite, I would recommend stopping at the trattoria which has the same name and enjoying a wonderful plate of paniscia.

 

Rice fields in Northern italy

  • Rice seeds are planted in the spring and harvested in September or October. During the spring and summer, the paddies are full of water and the rice “plant” grows up to one and half metres or five feet tall. Once harvested, it is brought in to dry and aged. Aging increases the starch in the rice and makes for better cooking.
  • Italians and Italian dishes never use rice as a side dish. It is always served as a primo piatto (first course), such as risotto, which is usually reserved for starchy dishes. My personal favourites are Risotto allo Champagne or Risotto con Porcini (mushrooms).

Since these beautiful farms are  more easily accessible if have a car, I recommend you to read my post 3 Things to Know About Driving in Italy, to have a better understaning on what drives Italians…

“Til then…Buon viaggio.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Hotel Borromeo Stresa, Piemonte, Italia Bound
Accommodations

What You Need to Know Before Booking Your Accommodations in Italy

A Home Away From Home

Whether I travel with my family, a group or alone, farmhouses –agriturismo- are my favourite types of  accommodations in Italy.

An Agriturismo as well as a Relais  such as the one below,  set the mood for any vacation. Imagine waking up in a century old villa, or spending some time visiting and even helping out on a working farm. Perhaps indulging in a spa in a XVI century castle.

No better accommodations than Relais Canalicchio
Relais Canalicchio. Beautifull relaxing stay in a very suggestive setting. A must when in Umbria

Beautifully attended rooms with all the amenities yet surrounded by farms, rolling vineyards or century old woods. Often prices are less than hotels and because you are in the outskirts of town you will feel more relaxed, alive and immerse. You’ll feel at home.

 

acommodations at Hotel Danielli in Venice
Majestic welcome at Hotel Danielli in Venice

Choose you accommodations wisely

Often you will need a car if you plan to stay in these places. If the plan was to only see Italy by train you’ll need to rethink your trip or your accommodations.

If you have no alternative but to use the public transportation, hotels in the cities are easier for your travels.

Some agriturismi may be able to shuttle you to town or lend you bicycles, but it makes it somewhat more expensive to only rely on shuttles and taxis to get to and from. Everything is possible but often it’ll come with a price.

Book Hotels in the City Only as a Must

If you have a car on the other hand, I would discourage anyone from staying in hotels in the cities. Parking is at a premium. Most cities have ZTL (zones where traffic is limited) if not restricted all together.

limited transit city sign
limited transit city sign

The traffic itself is heavy even if you may know where you are going. Some hotels are in such old buildings that don’t even offer parking at all.  In most cases you book hotel through booking sites,  you find a great deal on the room but the parking costs are not mentioned. And, if they do offer parking, sometimes you may have to walk a few blocks to an authorized parkade. Street parking is impossible at best and you’ll likely get a ticket.

Florence for instance is €68 for a parking infraction. I once helped a client who at all costs wanted to stay in downtown Florence. I found the hotel for the price he wanted but the parking was extra- 35€ per night extra, at that time. The problem was also that the garage was quite far and the concierge had to book a pick up time at least two hours before my client needed the car. Hardly convenient, but like most centri storici (an old part of town) the buildings were built way before cars were invented.

Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli.
Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli. Narrow streets in medieval town

Other options of course are AirBnB and VRBO but even then if they are in the city core, parking may come at a premium. Plus, you have to pay in advance and often have no cancellation refund policies. Still, it’s a good alternative for some.

Things to Know Before Booking in an Agriturismo or Farmhouse

When planning your trip, check out the locations and areas you want to visit, and then find an agriturismo that is central, yet has all the amenities that you need.

great accommodations in San Gimignano in Tuscany.
San Gimignano. Consider your interests when planning your stay

You would want to change accommodations as less often as possible on your holiday, so a well located place makes all the difference. Also, some places may require a minimum night’s stay. So, the more nights you stay, sometimes the lower the nightly rate.

Ask Questions

It’s also a good idea to check what’s included in the daily rate. At some places, the meals are included, and in others just the breakfast. Some are rooms only, others may offer full kitchens. If they offer meals, they may ask you in advance what your meal preferences are.

Once, I stayed in a farmhouse that included a full meal plan (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), and because we were sightseeing during the day they prepared beautiful lunches to take in beautiful picnic baskets. However, that’s not always the case. Always just ask first. And if you are planning to be away lots, maybe a half meal plan  or no plan at all is better for you.

Many places offer a lot more than a place to sleep. Research the agriturismo and see what else they offer. You might modify your stay because of the extra curricular activities that they offer. You’ll never know what they have in store for you. Cooking classes, horseback riding or even… picking olives.

Agriturismi are in the countryside and far enough from the centers that a car is necessary. If you don’t have one, make sure that they have a shuttle or some kind arrangement with a transport company. Tour guides will pick you up as well and I’ve arranged for bikes or mopeds to be delivered by rental companies in advance for customers to use.

Ask More Questions…

In many places, English is spoken very well. So although you can book online, I would recommend calling them personally and asking all the questions before booking. Because often, they are family owned and not franchises, the individual on the other line is always very helpful, as negative ratings don’t help their business. So, get acquainted with them. Sometimes prices are better when you call as opposed to simply booking online.

Your Holiday. Make it the Best Ever

Accommodations are a big part of your experience as well as a good chunk of your budget therefore spend the right enough time and money so that  your holiday is not ruined by it. The more you research the region and the type of accommodation the easier it is in the long run to enjoy a truly amazing adventure.

‘Till then… Buon Viaggio

Don’t forget to read other favorite posts from Italiaboud.com.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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italiabound.com
Adventure

Why You Should Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday

 “We are going to be in Rome, on the Amalfi Coast, in Tuscany, and near Siena. What other interesting places are there to see?”  This is one of the most asked question to me by friends or clients travelling to Italy.

That question carries a lot of weight. Italy is not a place that has a hundred  interesting things to see nor a thousand. Italy may have its name to claim monuments, but the reality is that on your way from one monument to the next there may be 600 more interesting places and towns to see, and often more beautiful or interesting than what you were on your way to see originally.

Duomo in Milan, Italy
Milan’s Duomo

You could be in a small town station waiting for a train to Rome, for instance, and just by looking around you notice unique architectural delights.

Italy’s Cultural Pride

Italy and Italians over the century had and still do have lots of pride in their everyday work. The buildings were never built with only practicality in mind. They were built to reflect the culture, the people, therefore the times. Nothing says more about an architect, than the style of building that he or she builds. Fountains were designed with grandeur ideas and looks in mind. The “big square box” North American style buildings are never considered even in today’s Italy. Fortunately, laws are in place to prevent that. Milano Centrale, as an example, was finished in 1931 by Mussolini. Its grandeur reflects his ego yet creates pride amongst Milanesi, even if most of them never were or no longer are fascists. It’s a mixture of Art Nouveau, Art Deco and fascism. Oh yes! and trains are supposed to stop there as well.

 

Architecture wonder in Cuneo, Italy
The marble floors and ticket wicket in Cuneo

Small Places as Interesting as…

Cuneo train station, to remain on the rail stations theme, is a beautiful architectural wonder that mesmerizes the average train user. It looks more like a museum. The restoration is meant to recreate what the original designers envisioned.

Details in train station in Cuneo, Italy
interesting details of the brass stairs handle by marble stairs

Cuneo is a town of just around 56,000 people nestled in the southwester area of Piemonte and hardly has the volume of tourists that Milan has. Nonetheless, when you come upon this town and its train station, you will be impressed.

To this day, Italians are leaders as they pour their pride in fashion, automotive, furniture design, and culinary delights, and that’s only the tip of the iceberg. This pride and artistic creativity is represented in everyday living. It makes for a more inspiring environment, therefore everyone benefits from. The way they dress, what they eat, how they socialize and how they live represent centuries of rich traditions, history and pride.

When asked “what else is there to see?”, the only answer that I can give is this: Keep your eyes, mind and senses always open and everywhere you go will never cease to amaze you. Italy is to tourists what a candy store is to a child.

And if you enjoy food see my post 5 things to Know About Dining in Italy because how and when to eat is as much as an art as the food itself.

“Till then…Buon viaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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