Italia Bound
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Davide Fattor

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Cinque Terre Italian Beach
Adventure

Why Spending Time On a Beach in Italy is a Must

Life is a… Beach. Italian Style

So, you want to go to Italy and take advantage of the beautiful summer weather to soak up some sun and swim in the blue warm waters of the Mediterranean. You are hoping to find a nice secluded beach where the only sounds are the waves crashing on the beach.

San Nicola Arcella in Calabria
San Nicola Arcella in Calabria

Unfortunately more often than not, these places are rare to find, as most beaches are often crowded by beachgoers. If tourists flock the scogli (reefs) of Sardegna and Campania or maybe Liguria too between October and May, then that may be the case. In the summer months, on the other hand, Italians live for the beach and water, so they tend to crowd them.

You Wonder Why?

Italian beach culture is a love triangle between Italians, the sea and the sweet life of doing nothing.

21 million Italians will hit the Italian beaches between July and August. Add a “couple” of foreigners, too.. well more like several millions.

Italians rush the beaches for at least 10 days but many will extend their holidays for the whole month.

Many are willing to work extra weekends, save on dinners, sacrifice make-up and fashion purchases so that they can add extra days to their beach holiday.

No other country has a need to be at the beach and under the sun like Italians do. They justify all of this because it’s the only time that they can completely detach from the day to day stress of work, kids, traffic, crowds and everything else that drives them crazy during the year.

54% of Italians will be going on a beach holiday during the year.

85% will go in July and August.

60% of them will stay at least 10 days.

So What Do Italians Do at the Beach?

A typical beach holiday to Italians consists of the following:

  • wake up
  • have breakfast
  • pick up all possible newspapers
  • walk to beach
  • sit under the rental umbrella on their rental loungers until noon
  • head back to hotel or apartment for lunch
  • back down to the beach at around 3 PM, and stay till 6 PM.
  •  shower at the hotel or apartment,
  • go to dinner and then for a passeggiata (stroll) and have a gelato.
  • They do this everyday that they are on holiday.
Don’t Worry… Be Italian

Italians’ only worry is about how dark of a tan they want. This is the time that the saying “il dolce far niente” (the sweet doing nothing ) comes in to play and they bare no excuses for it. During their holiday, each Italian will read 5000 books and newspapers. They even have libraries on the beaches to help with their choices.

Add a few walks down the beach, build a half a dozen sand castles. If you really want to feel Italian, build a sand race track with bent turns and tunnels, get yourself some plastic marbles and race for the ultimate prize…A ghiacciolo al limone ( lemon icecicle).

Now you are set!!

Library on Italian beach
Library on Italian beach

Conversations with umbrella-neighbours centre around politics and soccer or,  more recently, about food and recipes.  Recent surveys show that these are now the most talked about topics on beaches.

Ongoing arguments with their kids about getting in the water too soon after having had a snack are also often overheard.  Italians believe that one should not enter the water for at least three hours after having had food (joking, not joking!).

You Pay for the Convenience

All this doesn’t come cheap of course as the bagni or beach rental sites charge a fair amount for those umbrellas and chairs. In Rimini for instance, one umbrella and 2 sun chairs in the first row in some bagni  will cost around €25 per day or €124 per week. Expect to pay a lot more in more popular places such as Tuscany, Sardegna and Liguria. Even up to €4000 for the season.

Italian beach holiday
Endless umbrellas in Rimini

Public beaches are hard to come by and they are not so… convenient. Italians like convenience, and don’t mind crowds. So to pay for an umbrella or access to a caffè/ bar/ ristorante right on the beach to them is worth the cost. In the evening, life gets even better as the town is invaded by the beachgoers as are the nightclubs, discotheques and restaurants.

Where to Stay

Many Italians like to rent apartments. Hotels are popular, but only because Italians opt for a pensione completa, where all three meals are included in the price.

More often then not, they also tend to go back to the same seaside town, same bagno and even the same row and spot year after year. So their umbrella neighbours are the same every year, making their holiday more familiar as it is a sort of reunion.

I remember as a child spending the whole summer in Lignano Sabbia d’Oro with my grandma and uncles. Every year the same people from Rome would be our neighbours. I remember them always commenting how much I grew from the previous year and over the years they became sort of surrogated relatives. As an adult I even visited them in Rome.

If you are looking for that quiet secluded beach, Italy has plenty throughout the peninsula and you’ll be mesmerized by their beauty, tranquility and cleanliness. But, at the same time, spending a couple of days in a crowded one that defines Italian living, is something special too. At least once in your lifetime you should enjoy the “dolce far niente”. 

Italian invented it and are masters at it. Why not try it.

 

Five Beaches Where You Must Go to Experience il Dolce Far Niente

–Rimini or Riccione in the Emilia Romagna region are probably the most famous beaches of Italy amongst Germans and most European tourists. Endless miles of silky sand and lightly sloped coastline with perfectly tempered water. Ideal for adults and children alike.

–Lignano Sabbia d’ Oro is just one hour east of Venice. This golden sand town has beautiful beaches and reasonable rates.

–Senigallia. Further south from Rimini by 100km and closer to Ancona on the Adriatic side of the Italian coast. Great beaches, great food all with warm southern hospitality.

–Versilia. You are in Tuscany and the beaches of Versilia stretch from Forte dei Marmi to Viareggio. Lido di Camaiore probably has the best beach, but anywhere along this 30km stretch you can’t go wrong. Prices in Tuscany tend to be one of the highest in Italy.

–Alassio. This is a small stretch of beach in the Liguria region in the province of Savona. Stupendous small town on the Ligurian Sea rich of entertainment, restaurants and shops.

BONUS Beaches…

Don’t forget the real south, Calabria, in particular Roccella Ionica. The many Islands including Capri, the Emerald Coast in Sardegna and of course Taormina in Sicily

This is Why You Should Go to Italy… It’s An Experience Not Just a Holiday and see for yourself why millions of tourists flock the Italian peninsula every year.

“Til then…Buon vaggio

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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rice fields Italy Novara, Vercelli, Pavia, Italiabound.com
Adventure

Not Just Grapes and Olives…Rice, Too.

You’ve seen thousands of photos of Italy and its rolling hills covered in rows of vines and narrow roads serpentining through vineyards. You’ve marvelled at hilltop medieval towns overlooking olive trees and you have definitely tasted both olive oil and wine. Although you may even have had the chance to enjoy a plate of risotto, you’ve probably never really wondered where the rice came from.

Rice… the Underminded Cereal

Italy not only produces rice for its traditional dishes, but is the number one producer and exporter in Europe. Ironically, they even export it to…China.  The majority of the rice production in Italy is divided amongst three provinces in the north. Vercelli, Pavia and Novara.

Italian Carnaroli Rice
Italian Carnaroli Rice

Rice grows in flat areas, therefore over the years these provinces have seen an increase of interest by tourists to visit and explore these plains. Easy walking and cycling tours have dramatically increased, and honestly there is nothing more relaxing and educational than to do just that. Many of these 16th, 17th and 18th century majestic farms, or cascine as they are known, are to this day still functioning. Visitors can enjoy hours exploring the history and relax in the fresh air.

Restored Farms Brought Back to Life

In recent years, many more cascine have been restored to bring out their natural beauty. Up until the middle of the last century, hundreds of people would work in one of these cascine. They were located far from the towns (at least in those days it seemed far) and  needed to be self-sufficient. This meant having their own bakeries, butchers, blacksmiths, tailors and of course churches. Although these cascine were essentially working villages, art and creativity and decor weren’t overlooked while building them. They were also fortress-like and during the night time its gates would be closed to keep any undesirables out.

Affreschi, Tapestries, and Sculptures
A Cascina amongst rice
A Cascina amongst rice

Some of the most beautiful architecture can be found on these farms. Nowadays, walking or cycling along these roads and paths of the rice paddies gives you a great opportunity to view how things were three or four hundred years ago. Working in these fields was exceptionally hard work that both men and women shared equally. Women, aside from doing the traditional jobs of maintaining the household, were also very active as mondine, planting the rice and harvesting it. Now these risaie, (rice paddies) still exist, but there is only a dozen or so people needed to continue producing rice. Modernization in the sixties and later slowly eliminated the thousands of jobs that this industry employed. Nowadays, production has increased, but manpower has dwindled.

Sanctuaries Among the Rice Fields

These fields have also become sanctuaries for birds, pheasants, wild rabbits and other small animals. Many farms have donated land to wildlife sanctuaries and these co-exist with the farmers that still cultivate rice.

wild bird sanctuary in Italy rice fields
Photographs by Francesca Cesa Bianchi
  • Nowadays with the use of cars these risaie are not as so far away from bigger centres or towns. Reaching them is hardly a trek. Bike and hike trails are mostly paved, making a self-guided tour a pleasant addition to any trip to Italy.

 

5 Things You Probably Never Knew About Rice in Italy
  • The provinces of Novara and Vercelli are in the Piemonte region and the province of Pavia is in Lombardia. All are easily accessible by train and/or car. Milano Malpensa Airport is less than 90 kilometres from any of these three provinces.
  • The very famous types of rice grown in these areas are Arborio and Carnaroli. These kinds are ideal for the traditional dishes such as risotto or paniscia.
  • In the town of Casalbeltrame in the province of Novara,  there is a superb museum. L’ Civel, http://www.casalbeltrameonline.it/  recreates the old traditional ways these risaie worked. You can walk through the guided tour (in English) and listen to the songs the mondine  would be singing while harvesting in the paddies. You can see the equipment and tools that were used, and re-live their methods of harvesting the rice from over 120 years ago. For this small town of less than a thousand habitants, this museum is truly a hidden gem. And since touring brings an appetite, I would recommend stopping at the trattoria which has the same name and enjoying a wonderful plate of paniscia.

 

Rice fields in Northern italy

  • Rice seeds are planted in the spring and harvested in September or October. During the spring and summer, the paddies are full of water and the rice “plant” grows up to one and half metres or five feet tall. Once harvested, it is brought in to dry and aged. Aging increases the starch in the rice and makes for better cooking.
  • Italians and Italian dishes never use rice as a side dish. It is always served as a primo piatto (first course), such as risotto, which is usually reserved for starchy dishes. My personal favourites are Risotto allo Champagne or Risotto con Porcini (mushrooms).

Since these beautiful farms are  more easily accessible if have a car, I recommend you to read my post 3 Things to Know About Driving in Italy, to have a better understaning on what drives Italians…

“Til then…Buon viaggio.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Hotel Borromeo Stresa, Piemonte, Italia Bound
Accommodations

What You Need to Know Before Booking Your Accommodations in Italy

A Home Away From Home

Whether I travel with my family, a group or alone, farmhouses –agriturismo- are my favourite types of  accommodations in Italy.

An Agriturismo as well as a Relais  such as the one below,  set the mood for any vacation. Imagine waking up in a century old villa, or spending some time visiting and even helping out on a working farm. Perhaps indulging in a spa in a XVI century castle.

No better accommodations than Relais Canalicchio
Relais Canalicchio. Beautifull relaxing stay in a very suggestive setting. A must when in Umbria

Beautifully attended rooms with all the amenities yet surrounded by farms, rolling vineyards or century old woods. Often prices are less than hotels and because you are in the outskirts of town you will feel more relaxed, alive and immerse. You’ll feel at home.

 

acommodations at Hotel Danielli in Venice
Majestic welcome at Hotel Danielli in Venice
Choose you accommodations wisely

Often you will need a car if you plan to stay in these places. If the plan was to only see Italy by train you’ll need to rethink your trip or your accommodations.

If you have no alternative but to use the public transportation, hotels in the cities are easier for your travels.

Some agriturismi may be able to shuttle you to town or lend you bicycles, but it makes it somewhat more expensive to only rely on shuttles and taxis to get to and from. Everything is possible but often it’ll come with a price.

Book Hotels in the City Only as a Must

If you have a car on the other hand, I would discourage anyone from staying in hotels in the cities. Parking is at a premium. Most cities have ZTL (zones where traffic is limited) if not restricted all together.

limited transit city sign
limited transit city sign

The traffic itself is heavy even if you may know where you are going. Some hotels are in such old buildings that don’t even offer parking at all.  In most cases you book hotel through booking sites,  you find a great deal on the room but the parking costs are not mentioned. And, if they do offer parking, sometimes you may have to walk a few blocks to an authorized parkade. Street parking is impossible at best and you’ll likely get a ticket.

Florence for instance is €68 for a parking infraction. I once helped a client who at all costs wanted to stay in downtown Florence. I found the hotel for the price he wanted but the parking was extra- 35€ per night extra, at that time. The problem was also that the garage was quite far and the concierge had to book a pick up time at least two hours before my client needed the car. Hardly convenient, but like most centri storici (an old part of town) the buildings were built way before cars were invented.

Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli.
Ponte del Diavolo in Cividale del Friuli. Narrow streets in medieval town

Other options of course are AirBnB and VRBO but even then if they are in the city core, parking may come at a premium. Plus, you have to pay in advance and often have no cancellation refund policies. Still, it’s a good alternative for some.

Things to Know Before Booking in an Agriturismo or Farmhouse

When planning your trip, check out the locations and areas you want to visit, and then find an agriturismo that is central, yet has all the amenities that you need.

great accommodations in San Gimignano in Tuscany.
San Gimignano. Consider your interests when planning your stay

You would want to change accommodations as less often as possible on your holiday, so a well located place makes all the difference. Also, some places may require a minimum night’s stay. So, the more nights you stay, sometimes the lower the nightly rate.

Ask Questions

It’s also a good idea to check what’s included in the daily rate. At some places, the meals are included, and in others just the breakfast. Some are rooms only, others may offer full kitchens. If they offer meals, they may ask you in advance what your meal preferences are.

Once, I stayed in a farmhouse that included a full meal plan (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), and because we were sightseeing during the day they prepared beautiful lunches to take in beautiful picnic baskets. However, that’s not always the case. Always just ask first. And if you are planning to be away lots, maybe a half meal plan  or no plan at all is better for you.

Many places offer a lot more than a place to sleep. Research the agriturismo and see what else they offer. You might modify your stay because of the extra curricular activities that they offer. You’ll never know what they have in store for you. Cooking classes, horseback riding or even… picking olives.

Agriturismi are in the countryside and far enough from the centers that a car is necessary. If you don’t have one, make sure that they have a shuttle or some kind arrangement with a transport company. Tour guides will pick you up as well and I’ve arranged for bikes or mopeds to be delivered by rental companies in advance for customers to use.

Ask More Questions…

In many places, English is spoken very well. So although you can book online, I would recommend calling them personally and asking all the questions before booking. Because often, they are family owned and not franchises, the individual on the other line is always very helpful, as negative ratings don’t help their business. So, get acquainted with them. Sometimes prices are better when you call as opposed to simply booking online.

Your Holiday. Make it the Best Ever

Accommodations are a big part of your experience as well as a good chunk of your budget therefore spend the right enough time and money so that  your holiday is not ruined by it. The more you research the region and the type of accommodation the easier it is in the long run to enjoy a truly amazing adventure.

‘Till then… Buon Viaggio

Don’t forget to read other favorite posts from Italiaboud.com.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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Dining

5 Things to Know About Dining in Italy

 

Italy’s food culture is unique in many ways. From their passion with slow food, to the diversity of their cuisine varying from one region to an other, and often from town to  town. Food and eating together is the reason why Italians exists.

Life, relationships, family and even work often revolve around the table. Food is to Italians what the heart is to our body. Without it it’s society would die. Everything is planned around that. Although eating is important, just as important are the Italian etiquette around food and restaurants. often quite different from  North America.

 No Need to Tip

1- Unlike in North America where staffing is inexpensive because we expect the restaurant goers to pay for the hired help with tips, in Italy the servers and cooks have a set labour contract. Their wages are completely covered so you don’t need to tip. It’s never expected, but if you like to, it’s a minimal amount.

When is the Best Time to Eat?

2-  Restaurants are not always open ready to serve anytime you feel hungry, unless you are in a tourist infested area. Restaurants tend to open just before noon and stay open until 2:30 PM or so. In some cases, they don’t take tables past 2:00 PM.

They re-open again later around 7 o’clock in the evening and dinners are served until late.  It all depends on the location; downtown, suburbs, big cities, small towns or high traffic areas on highways

. The seasons also play a big role in when restaurants open and close. Most places are closed one day, some two days of the week, usually Monday, Tuesday but also Wednesday or Thursday.

That Seems like a lot of Food

3- Italians eat in courses at both lunch or dinner. They’ll have at least two plus the caffe.

Antipasti. (appetizers) Not to be confused with aperitivi.

Primi. (first dishes) usually those are starches, such pasta or risotto or soup.

Secondi. (second dishes) tent to be meats, fish. Often you would receive the meat by itself with no sides.

Contorni. (side dishes) Arrive with you secondi maybe salads, steamed and cooked vegetables or fries, etc. etc.  These are brought on different plates.

Formaggi (cheeses) Usually this will be a selection of local cheeses.

Dolci. (dessert)

Frutta. (fruit) It is common to finish with fresh fruit. And last but not least…

Caffè. This is always an espresso and sometime it’s corretto which means that grappa or another kind of liquor is added to the caffè. Never ever order a cappuccino or a macchiato at end of meal. It’s frowned upon.

Cover Charge?… for What?

4- Coperto is a cover charge for each person sitting down having dinner. This varies from 1 to even 5 Euros or so depending on the type of restaurant. A pizzeria is usually 1 to 2€ for instance. Osterie style restaurants may not even have one. High-end restaurants will be more. The charge goes back to the medieval days when the inns would charge for using the place when customers would bring  their own food and just used the inn as a refuge from the weather. The cover is for the linen, cutlery and bread. This would be posted on the menu so there are no surprises.

Free Food?

5- Aperitivi are not antipasti, so if you drop in at a bar around 6 o’clock or so you can go for a aperitivo and in most cases food is served with it free of charge. Yes, the food is free, as long as you buy a drink. Some bars (bars in Italy are cafés or wine tasting shops) offer apercena, which translated is aper (aperitif) and cena (dinner).

Here you can literally eat to your heart’s desire and all you pay for is your drinks. Often you do this standing up and/or outside the bar in the street while wandering in and out sampling and eating finger food and chatting the night away. I recommend finding at least one of these places while you are traveling. It’s a great way to see the Italian dolce vita at work while sampling different dishes and wines. Here you pay before you eat.

BONUS…

You must always ask for the bill, as waiters will not bring it to you automatically at the end of your meal. It would be considered extremely rude to do that. The reasoning behind this is that the evening is not finished just because the food is. Italians often stay and talk for hours after the caffè and only when they are ready to leave they ask ( by a hand wave) the bill.

DOUBLE BONUS…

Lately all over Italy and mostly in the larger cities a new phenomenon  is occurring.

Restaurants where the “ imbonitori” stand outside and invite you in. You’ve seen them in the Latin Quarters in Paris and there they belong. But in Italy…No thank you! Often these hosts offer a free appetizer or a drink (but you will pay for it in other ways) to entice you to enter. They may even tell you that they serve the best pasta in town.

It’s pretty obvious that these are only really inviting tourist as regular restaurant goers would never think of being duped by these individuals. If they need to ” invite”, the food is usually not that good. Even Italian tourists in their own country would never go here so why should you?

AVOID at all cost these places. Stay clear. But, if you do go, you then lose the right to complain that you’ve been to Italy and the food was terrible.  You have been warned.

“Uomo avvisato mezzo salvato”.

Translation : Man that has been warned,  is a man half saved”

‘Till then… Buon Viaggio!

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

 

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Strada Amalfitana Italia Bound
Transportation

3 Things to Know About Driving in Italy

One of the top questions or concerns I get when people book their holidays in Italy is about traffic and driving in Europe.  Many people have heard of the Autostrada – the speeds, the fancy cars, and crazy European drivers – and are intimidated by the thought of having to do it themselves.

I’ve even heard many clients tell me that they will only take trains or buses as they did not even consider driving in Italy as an option given their fears.  This would be a HUGE mistake as not only would you be missing out on views you would not otherwise see, but also, you’d be missing out on some of the most unique adventures that you can have that you otherwise would not enjoy if you only used public transportation.

These are my top three tips for driving on the Italian highways:

Limited Traffic 

City centers are often closed off from traffic for environmental reasons. And those that are not usually have ZTL signs. That means area (zona) has limited (limitato) traffic (traffico) which means you need a pass to permit. Most GPS systems will tell you that.

limited transit city sign
limited transit city sign

In some cases only certain streets are viable and a wrong turn will net you a photograph and a fine. So for instance, Google ZTL Firenze and see the times, locations and parking that is available if you choose to go to Florence by car.

Gas Stations not Always Open

Gas stations are run just like any other business in Italy. They are mostly closed for lunch from about 12:30-3pm or 3:30pm. They are not open on Sundays or holidays. So make sure your car is filled on Saturday for instance. Automated 24 hour stations are available but make sure you have a 4 digit pin card (whether it’s a debit card or credit card). Cash is not a problem. You will need to spend some time figuring out the pump at the automated one, and English translation is not always available. The best bet is to go to one when it’s open and fill up there. Usually an attendant will fill it up for you. On the autostrada, stations are always open. Here, fuel can be more expensive and prices do very from city to city.

Rent a Car… But Be Wise

Visiting Italy by car is by far the best way to see the country. The one great thing about renting vehicles in Italy is that you can drop the car off in any other city within Italy and not have to pay a drop-off fee. In Italy, all rentals come with CDW coverage so you can’t take advantage of your credit card to cover that cost. Airport pick-ups have extra fees, so the best way to save some money is to figure out when you need the car and rent accordingly. For instance, you arrive in Rome Fiumicino airport and your plan is to spend four days in Rome and then head to the Amalfi coast for four more days.. Take a shuttle, a cab or Uber to your hotel in Rome. Rome is best enjoyed by foot and a car would only be an expensive inconvenience.

Use Train as Alternative

Train stations are always in the downtown of the cities therefore on your forth day you can  take the train to Sorrento and pick up the car there. You need a car for the windy Amalfi coast and the surroundings such as Pompei, Ercolano or Salerno. Using public transportation here would only add lots of time and extra expenses as well you would not be able to enjoy those sights at your own pace.

The savings are substantial. Just parking in Rome alone for four days could cost you €150. Unless there are four or six of you, the train to Sorrento is way cheaper than tolls, gas and time spent trying to get out the congested Italian capital. Since you are also renting the car in the city and not at an airport, you will be spared the extra airport tax that all rentals have. There is no tax if you drop off the car at an airport.

Unless you are renting a compact car most cars are diesel (gasolio). If you do have a choice, get a diesel car. The fuel is about 20-30% cheaper than gas and the mileage is much better. With my last car, I averaged about 5,5L per 100km or 43MPG. And at € 1.40 per litre, you would want good mileage

Check out my other post on the Italian autostrada  ( freeways ) for more insights on driving in Italy.

“Till then…Buon  viaggio.

Are  you travelling to Italy and are interested in my assistance, or would like to comment on my post?  Just drop a line below or contact me privately at info@italiabound.com.

 

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